2020.12.31
INDUSTRY NEWS - 2020.12.31
1、斥深圳「加辣」過關措施嚴苛 運輸業憂礙供港物流
【明報專訊】有跨境貨櫃車司機早前於內地確診，深圳當局收緊過關政策，司機由「3日一檢」變為「每日一檢」，有業界稱內地約兩周前再「加辣」，若本港跨境貨車司機居住屋苑出現確診，會暫時取消豁免檢疫資格14日，其間不准入粵，批評做法太苛刻。有運輸公司老闆稱有司機「心理壓力大到辭職」，令公司營運出現困難，「唔知過唔過到今年」，又稱新措施會影響供港貨物運輸。
有司機感重壓辭職 公司難捱
香港陸路客貨運輸業議會主席蔣志偉表示，深圳當局用自己方法試圖壓縮跨境車輛數目，但未與業界溝通是否可行，對業界並不公平。
蔣說，近期只有一名司機確診，但針對跨境司機的措施愈見嚴厲，本港有很多副食品及日用品，都要經由陸路運輸運送，若疫情持續，預料會有更多司機被拒入境，供港物資或可能出現短缺。
同屋苑現確診即須檢疫 促政府表不滿
物流公司負責人陳志標表示，該公司旗下有12輛貨櫃車及10多名員工，當中一名司機於本月23日晚上運載空櫃到深圳取貨回港，惟該名司機在皇崗口岸被通知暫停豁免檢疫，遭「打回頭」，無法提貨趕及即日船期赴運，貨主向他稱會追討損失。他說，由於新措施太嚴苛，公司另外兩名司機已辭職，公司營運壓力大增。
陳志標又稱，被內地暫時取消豁免檢疫的司機，會收到「你在香港疫情高風險地區存在暴露史或接觸史」，但他們只是居住大廈鄰座，甚至只是同一屋苑或地區，認為收緊入境安排太苛刻，要求港府向深圳當局反映業界不滿及改善。
資料來源：明報 (2020年12月28日)
2、港人下周二起入境深圳需持有14天隔離「健康驛站」預約確認單
港府提醒，深圳市今日公布自2021年1月5日起，由香港經深圳灣口岸入境深圳的人士，除必須持有24小時內的核酸檢測陰性結果證明外，亦必須出示14天集中隔離醫學觀察期間將入住的酒店預約確認單的新規定。特區政府呼籲市民須留意並確保能符合相關規定，以免在進入深圳時出現困難。
深圳市的新規定指出，為進一步加強粵港疫情聯防聯控，保障通關秩序和經深圳灣口岸入境人員的安全健康，自1月5日上午10時起，除經批准豁免入境隔離的重要公務商務人員和跨境貨車司機等人員繼續按現行規定執行外，其他人員經深圳灣口岸入境深圳時，必須持有粵港兩地政府認可的新冠病毒檢測機構所發出24小時內的核酸檢測陰性結果證明，以及入境深圳後接受14天集中隔離醫學觀察期間將入住的酒店的預約確認單。
香港政府提醒，由香港經深圳灣口岸入境深圳的人士必須預先透過深圳市政府的「健康驛站房間線上預約系統」(https://hk.sz.gov.cn/)，預約在14天集中隔離醫學觀察期間入住的酒店。預約系統12月30日上午10時正式上線。擬入境深圳的人士在出發前應確保已持有酒店的預約確認單及符合廣東省政府要求的有效核酸檢測陰性結果證明，否則將不能入境深圳。
假如有關人士未能入境深圳而折返香港，或須根據香港法例第599C章《若干到港人士強制檢疫規例》接受強制檢疫14天，市民應格外小心注意。
有關深圳市的「健康驛站房間線上預約系統」的操作指引，可參考(https://hk.sz.gov.cn/help.pdf)；特區政府認可有關新冠病毒的醫療檢測機構名單，已上載(www.coronavirus.gov.hk/pdf/List_of_recognised_laboratories.pdf)。
深圳口岸辦公室深夜公布，由香港經深圳灣口岸入境人員需持健康驛站房間網上預約確認單通關，系統開放用戶註冊和預約功能，每日系統開放預約時間為早上10時至晚上8時。用戶註冊登錄系統後，可預約自2021年1月5日起7天以內的房間名額。
前往深圳灣口岸通關前，必使用本人通關證件號碼完成健康驛站房間網上預約，並取得通關當日有效的預約確認單。預約確認單為系統生成的二維碼，可使用手機等電子設備顯示，也可自行打印紙質單現場出示。通關現場不能出示當日有效的預約確認單的入境旅客，將安排返回香港。如確因特殊情況無法辦理返港手續，將安排在現場依次候補當日剩餘未預約以及已預約但未使用的房間名額。
資料來源：星島日報 (2020年12月30日)
3、越南90000多家工廠停工，美國將對越南加征關稅！
從年初至今，越南已有近9萬3500家企業歇業，同比增15.6%。新冠肺炎疫情複雜多變，正在對越南國內企業的生產活動造成不良影響。
據12月23日，越南“西貢解放日報”報導：目前為止，越南已有近9萬3500家企業歇業，同比增15.6%。新冠肺炎疫情複雜多變，正在對越南國內企業的生產活動造成不良影響。
對於紡織品成衣領域的生產領域，越南紡織品成衣協會主席武德江表示，截至今年11月底，紡織品成衣領域的出口額達近300億美元，預計今年的出口額只達350億美元。
該領域的出口額雖相當穩定，但不少紡織品成衣企業已開始疲倦。
實際上，各家企業再承接到訂單，但數量不多和增長價值不高。
至於西服生產企業，從第二季度至今一直沒有訂單，若干企業須有限度地生產，同時轉為生產口罩和防護用品。然而，上述產品的訂單也日漸減少，因為各國已轉型生產，並補充由於第二及第三季度需求突然增加導致供應量局部缺乏的貨源。
與此同時，市工商廳副廳長阮方東透露，今年是企業遇到重重困難的一年。從年初至今，本市有近3萬家企業歇業。
本市工業生產指數向來年年遞增，但2020年卻相反。前11個月的工業生產指數同比下降4.4%。其中，加工及製造工業下降5.1%，電力產銷領域下降1.5%，供水和垃圾處理領域下降0.4%。若干領域的生產指數同比下降22.9%，如木材加工、木材和竹藤製品。
值得擔憂的是，經濟困難越來越多。
目前，越南全國以及本市各家企業正在面臨進口原材料短缺的危機，同時出口市場減少，因為原是越南重要合夥的若干市場正在應對新一波疫情來襲，如歐盟、日本、韓國、美國等。
在另一個角度下，武德江主席擔心外國直接投資(FDI)企業與國內企業在多個領域中的出口額比例越來越放寬。例如：對於紡織品成衣領域，FDI企業的出口額佔65%，國內企業35%。對於皮鞋和手提袋領域，FDI企業與國內企業的出口額分別達73%及27%。
特別是，電電子領域，電子領域的FDI企業出口額已達逾90%。
越南工貿部：
美國對越南實施貿易制裁將對雙邊貿易產生負面影響
據路透社報導，美國商務部將於12月起繼續對越南商品加征關稅，原因是該部認為越南低估了越南盾的價值。
越南工貿部強調，越南對美國貿易代表辦公室(USTR)在越美外交、文化、經易關係正處於良好時期，於2020年10月2日作出對越南貨幣和木材產品進行調查的決定感到遺憾。
在美國貿易代表辦公室決定開展調查後，工貿部向政府總理彙報了相關情況並提出了總體解決方案。
同時，越方還向美方通告，願在調查過程中與美方密切配合。
工貿部認為，近段時間，美國許多知名協會、組織、企業和個人陸續發出強烈聲音，反對制裁和所有對越南商品徵稅的企圖，因為這完全違背了國家利益以及兩國企業和人民的利益。
工貿部代表強調，如果美國貿易代表辦公室蓄意單方面加快對越南出口商品實施制裁的進程，兩國貿易往來乃至兩國關係一定遭受負面影響。
工貿部指出，最大受害者將是兩國企業界，生產者和消費者。從越南方面來看，越南企業在與美國企業開展業務時將不再感到安全。這可能導致從美國進口的原材料和技術減少，從而扭轉了近年來，來自美國的進口強勁增長的趨勢。
一覺醒來，
美國突然對越南“世界工廠”翻臉了！
當越南正在朝著下一個“世界工廠”一路狂奔時，不出所料，美國對越南翻臉了。
當越南正在朝著下一個“世界工廠”一路狂奔時，不出所料，美國對越南翻臉了。
要知道，就在不久前，越南還似乎是美國的寵兒。美國財政部12月16日認定越南為匯率操縱國，將把越南列為制裁對象。越南正在成為製造業聚集地，對美出口猛增，引起了美國特朗普政府的警惕。越南是主要通過吸引外資發展經濟的國家，美國的制裁有可能影響其國家戰略。如果沒記錯的話，這還是越南第一次享受這種待遇。
什麼是匯率操縱國？
1、對美國的貿易順差超過200億美元；
2、外匯干預程度高於GDP的2%；
3、全球經常帳盈餘超過GDP的2%。
越南最近1年的對美貿易順差為580億美元，超過日本(570億美元)，躍居第4位等，符合3個認定標準。
只要滿足了這三個條件，那麼就會登上美國的黑名單。這個名單唯二的國家還有一個，那就是瑞士。
原因也很簡單，美國經濟很疲軟，越南經濟很不錯。今年前九個月，越南對中國出口增長了15%，對美國的出口增長更快，23%，達到547億美元。
此外，美國財政部還將中國臺灣、泰國、印度加入匯率監測名單。目前，該名單上已有中國、日本、韓國、德國、義大利、新加坡和馬來西亞等10個國家和地區。
美國恨得牙癢癢
越官方作出低姿態回應
越南人出口出得心花怒放，美國人卻恨得牙關緊咬。
越南勞動力豐富，2019年的外商直接投資(FDI，已批准的)比2018年增長7.2%，增至380億美元。這是10年前的1.8倍，達到歷史最高水準。韓國三星電子2019年把中國的手機生產全部轉移到越南。三星一家公司就占到越南總出口額的四分之一。
在新冠疫情下，外資企業紛紛將部分生產轉移到越南，這也加速了越南對美出口增加。越南及早控制住了第一波新冠疫情，未對企業生產活動造成很大影響，也起了積極作用。
報告將瑞士和越南列為匯率操縱國，稱兩國持續干預外匯市場，以限制本國貨幣升值。美國財政部表示，上述兩國在過去四年的外匯干預措施中，至少有一部分是為了防止有效的國際收支調整，越南還試圖通過匯率管理在國際貿易中獲得不公平的競爭優勢。
美國財長姆努欽在聲明中表示，美國將採取有力措施來保障本國工人和企業從經濟增長中受益，美財政部將跟進其對越南和瑞士的調查結果，努力消除對外國競爭對手創造不公平優勢的做法。
對此，越南國家銀行在17日發表了態度相對和緩的公告，在17日發表的公告中，越南國家銀行強調，越南近幾年來在貨幣政策的框架下對匯率進行調控，目的是抑制通貨膨脹，助力宏觀經濟穩定，而不是為了謀取不平等的國際貿易競爭優勢。
越南央行表示，與美國的貿易順差和經常帳戶盈餘是越南經濟的特性造成的。但該行也表示，將與美國政府協作，以確保“和諧而公平”的貿易關係。
如果一個國家把另一個國家列為匯率操縱國，它就必須據此對另一個國家實施嚴厲的貿易制裁，屆時很可能引發雙方的大規模貿易戰，並超出兩國範圍、波及全球。
因此，由於一旦被認定為“匯率操縱國”，必定導致定義國出口下降，進而嚴重拖累被定義國(出口國)整體出口，產業鏈更加破碎，失業率快速攀升。
這一次，越南頂得住嗎？
資料來源：紡織網 (2020年12月28日)
4、東莞「金融80條」推動莞港合作 助企業來港上市
東莞市政府22日發布《東莞市貫徹落實〈關於金融支持粵港澳大灣區建設的意見〉行動方案》，就35方面提出80項措施，針對區內城市的跨境貿易、投資便利化，以及推動與香港、澳門的金融合作。市政府指，方案落地實施後，將提升與港澳市場的互聯互通。
一、促進大灣區跨境貿易、投融資便利化
共18項行動措施，包括推進資本項目外匯管理便利化改革、建立便利港澳居民的賬戶管理體系、建立跨境雙向理財通機制、開展本外幣合一的跨境資金池業務試點、支持轄內銀行開展跨境貸款業務等多項具體措施。
二、深化莞港澳金融合作，構建多元化金融服務體系
共17項行動措施，包括擴大銀行、證券和保險業開放、支持地方法人金融機構提質增效發展、持續拓寬重點領域的直接融資渠道、進一步加大「險資入莞」工作力度等。
三、推進莞港澳金融市場互聯互通，拓寬境外融資渠道
共13項措施，包括支持非投資性企業開展股權投資試點、持續深化莞港澳跨境金融合作、鼓勵符合條件的企業赴香港上市、為符合相關規定的轄內企業在澳門發債提供支持、推進莞港澳徵信跨境合作。
四、進一步提升金融服務創新水平
共29項措施，包括加強科技創新金融服務、支持製造業高質量發展、推動供應鏈金融創新發展、為中小微企業提供融資增信支持、金融助力穩外貿外資、構建多層次融資擔保體系等。針對外貿外資企業，推廣「莞貿通」貿易融資項目，通過「政府+銀行+保險」融資合作模式，做大出口信用保險保單融資額。
東莞制定十四五規劃，把握「雙區」建設機遇
東莞市委23日召開全體會議，市長肖亞非就《東莞市委關於製制定東莞市國民經濟和社會發展第十四個五年規劃和二〇三五年遠景目標的建議（稿）》進行說明。他指出有5大重點事項，一是全力打造最優創新生態；二是以先進製造業為根基，率先打造製造強市、質量強市、數字東莞，全面增強產業核心競爭力；三是把握大灣區等的機遇，舉全市之力深度參與建設，實現高質量發展。
四是融入新發展格局，發揮東莞製造業優勢和連接國內國外兩個市場、兩種資源的基礎優勢，破解外貿、消費、投資等關鍵領域存在的短板，打造鏈接國內國際雙循環的現代化樞紐城市；五是優化城市空間格局，塑造「產城人融合」的未來城市新形態。
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2020年12月23日)
5、GAP只剩網店・ESPRIT撤出亞洲市場 總結2020年零售業掙扎求存慘況
2020 年新冠肺炎肆虐，影響營商環境。有不少進駐香港的外國品牌，今年也因疫情影響宣布撤出香港或轉型網銷，當中有不少是港人熟悉的品牌：
（1）GAP
今年 7 月，GAP 已傳出撤出香港的消息並轉戰電子商貿，如今品牌位於中環的旗艦店已經結業，只剩下網店。品牌在 10 月時曾表示，到 2024 年初將關閉 220 間 GAP 門市，並計劃在 3 年內關閉其在北美的 130 間 Banana Republic 分店，轉而將重點投放在電貿業務上。
（2）ESPRIT
本地知名時裝品牌 ESPRIT 在新冠肺炎疫情影響下裁員發及關閉分店。ESPRIT 母企思捷環球截至今年 6 月 30 日的業績顯示，其虧損接近港幣 40 億元，而隨著思捷環球重組公司業務，品牌也在今年 6 月底撤出包括中國在內的亞洲市場。
（3）Victoria’s Secret
美國內衣品牌 Victoria's Secret 英國分公司受新冠肺炎疫情打擊，在今年 6 月宣布破產。品牌位於銅鑼灣京華中心、佔地 4 層的 Victoria's Secret 旗艦店開業不足兩年亦宣布於 6 月 25 日結業，正式撤出香港。
（4）Topshop
英國連鎖時裝品牌 Topshop 位於中環皇后大道中泛海大廈兩層高的旗艦店於 10 月約滿後不續租，品牌之後會撤出香港實體店業務，意味 Topshop 在香港沒有實體店，而 Topshop 未來只會維持網店業務。
（5）Line Friends Store
以可愛貼圖公仔出名，甚至設有專門店的 Line Friends Store 在今年 11 月時宣布本港 3 間分店會在月內陸續關閉，而店舖門前的巨型公仔已成為絕響。
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2020年12月29日)
6、2020服裝行業五大熱門話題：服裝巨頭敗走、小眾服裝出圈
核心提示：2020年，拉夏貝爾“壞消息”不斷，Old Navy退出中國市場，I.T將退市，艾格破產...同時，漢服、Lolita裙、JK制服吸引大量千禧一代“入坑”。
再有幾天，就將迎來2021。回望艱苦奮鬥的2020一整年，有疫情陰雲之下直播電商紅利的爆發以及成就的各大網紅，也有因疫情停工，收入大幅縮水，無力支付高昂的租金導致大量關店的品牌。有小眾流行服飾出圈的積極信號，也有難逃虧損、破產裁員的資本寒冬。
有人退場，有人新生，在這個不確定的時代，服裝行業也在面臨動盪。從2020五大熱門話題中，可以窺見行業發展的一些規律，服裝人們也將繼續前行!
疫情之下服裝巨頭大敗走
2020對於大多數服裝品牌來說並不是順風順水。以拉夏貝爾為例的國內服企依然難逃困境。股價在經歷長達半年的下滑趨勢。“壞消息”被持續拋出：一年五換總裁，新總裁上任一個月即‘光速辭職’”、旗下85個銀行帳戶被凍結，12.97億元不動產被查封、累計訴訟涉案439起，涉案金額約15.23億元等。
除了拉夏貝爾，今年過得艱難的服裝企業也不在少數。
放眼國際，今年1月，1993年進入中國市場的澳大利亞品牌真維斯宣佈進入破產清算管理程式；
此後，今年3月，GAP旗下的一個子品牌Old Navy在進入中國之後“水土不服”，黯然離場；
5月，Esprit所屬公司思捷環球決定將終止“終止中國內地業務基礎上，全面退出亞洲零售業務”；
6月，曾被視為森女風代表的日本女裝earth music & ecology在京東旗艦店發佈通告終止經營天貓門店；
8月，“一代鞋王”達芙妮宣佈退出中高檔品牌的實體零售業務，入華五年的英國潮牌Superdry在剛敗走國內市場，9月又被報導被港鐵公司起訴拖欠港鐵公司旗下物業圓方廣場的租金；
11月，艾格女裝成衣線破產，相關資產將以“全場一折”的特價在“雙十一”當天處置變現；
12月，貴人鳥及其創始人林天福再收限制消費令，同時，香港潮牌鼻祖I.T宣佈將私有化退市……
不過，有老牌巨頭敗退，也有品牌依舊逆勢而上，尤其是這幾年轉型年輕化以及國潮的最具有代表性：李甯、太平鳥、波司登、森馬等紛紛在雙十一等重大活動中取得亮眼名次，有趣的是，這些國產品牌率先嗅到了新潮流的商機，或是多品牌，或是改變風格、去庫存、擁抱電商等多種打法，雖然艱難，卻也重新崛起發光!
網紅直播逐夢電商圈
2020註定是不平凡的一年，今年上半年，國內外新冠疫情蔓延，導致海內外服裝企業面臨城市封鎖、市場萎縮、門店關閉、資金鏈短缺、物流停滯等問題，同時，房租、員工薪資等開支更是壓垮駱駝的最後一根稻草。重重困境倒逼網紅直播和電商逆勢興起，在短時間實現逆境突圍成為新常態。
2020年對於薇婭來說用“改變、忙碌、感恩”三個詞形容，電商人經常能看到淩晨兩三點的杭州，沒有人不想成為下一個薇婭。如果說2019年中國直播電商的交易規模達到4512.9億元，預計2020年交易規模將達到11566.4億元，同比增長156%！
這其中也有直播事故的發生。今年8月28日，杭州某服裝公司直播間內，知名網紅主播廖某正在頻繁試穿各類女裝產品，讓粉絲們意外的是，前一秒直播間內廖某還在試穿產品，下一秒鏡頭裡卻走進了一群員警，伴隨著廖某錯愕的表情，直播戛然而止。作為一名主播，是售假環節中的傳播者，而實際貨源仍由不法商家提供。
眼下直播帶貨風口越來越擁擠，唱衰之聲此起彼伏。我們也相信在度過直播亂象叢生的階段後，網紅賣貨能更好地還原與升級購物本質，管理有序和規整制度。
小眾服裝出圈：“三坑姐妹”
小眾服裝圈子也有大市場。2020年，中國二次元消費群體達到3.87億人，二次元服裝市場規模近170億。其中有著“三坑姐妹”之稱的漢服或漢元素服飾、Lolita裙、JK制服屬於泛二次元文化IP，吸引大量千禧一代“入坑”。
對於JK來說，某寶一家店鋪剛上新的“溫柔一刀”19分鐘銷量突破21萬。並且這種盛況放在JK圈已經是常態。門檻低、樣式多，加上b站和女團選秀的風靡，讓JK一躍成為今年盛行的服飾。Jk的本質是“期貨裙”，買家付款定金，店家隨後生產，後續無補即為絕版。可以說饑餓行銷正在掏空以學生党為主的消費者的錢包。
此外，在公共場所時常看到翠袖紅裙、青衫白褂的年輕人。越來越多的消費者願意穿著漢服、Lolita裙走上街，在抖音、B站、微博、淘寶的推波助瀾下，漢服文化可以說迎來爆發式增長。
值得一提的是，無論是jk還是漢服，對原創版權有著近乎瘋狂的堅持。如果你還穿著山寨版的JK制服就會圈內人群的鄙視。在這種趨勢下，那些想要嘗試消費小眾服飾的新人只能“敬而遠之”。
瘋狂的炒鞋圈
隨著Z世代成為移動互聯網上網主力,垂直社區也迎來了爆發。
“一入鞋市深似海，從此存款是路人”“70後炒股，80後炒房，90後炒幣，00後炒鞋”流傳甚廣。曾經椰子也不那麼難搶，直到媒體大量報導，讓越來越多人意識到球鞋這個市場有著不小的利潤價值。
商家通過推出明星同款、聯名款、限量發行等方式營造貨品稀缺感，也就是“饑餓行銷”，每一次“瘋搶”“價格飆升”，都是品牌方免費的曝光。對於投資品類來說，球鞋是否和郵票、文玩一樣曇花一現尚且不好下定論，年輕人瘋狂搶購的背後就是不相信自己會成為“最大的笨蛋”。此外，球鞋溢價的另一個弊端在於本應還在初中或是高中學習的學生群體也加入其中，除了自身熱愛，中間的利益差價足以讓人心動。
值得一提的是，球鞋畢竟是用來穿的，容易批量生產，成本也不算高昂，其背後自帶極大的風險性，如果某一天泡沫被戳破，又有多少人會接盤呢?
進擊的口罩
由於今年年初的疫情爆發，引發民眾搶購口罩。這讓不少製造商開設口罩生產線，以解決供應不足的問題。然而由於市場競爭激烈，其中也有不少廠家盲目開線，浮現廠商倒閉亦或者陷入口罩機、原材料的訂購糾紛。
今年3月中旬，有人把做口罩“倒爺”賺到的錢全部投入口罩廠，口罩價格暴跌導致最後血本無歸。甚至有廠家低價處理原本高價購入的口罩機，改為回歸到原本的核心業務上。這其中，有不少囤積原材料、口罩，借機哄抬物價的中間商受到法律制裁。
近日，一位熔噴布生產車間主任表示曾經乘風破浪的口罩和防疫布料“不香了”，防疫物資行業其實已經供遠遠大於求，虧本的企業占絕大多數，所以不打算深耕下去。
根據外媒報導，全球口罩市場規模將於2030年達到156.962億美元，該市場在2020年至2030年之間的複合年增長率為5.7%。從長遠來看，隨著大批生產廠商的湧入和退出，防疫物資行業將再次洗牌，訂單逐漸平穩，利潤也發展為“常態化”。
2020年是服裝行業整理再出發的一年，市場變化和消費者的購物習慣倒逼企業變革，這其中有進擊也有撤退，有逆襲也有出圈，相信到2021年，服企依然會砥礪圖強、浴火進擊!
資料來源：贏商網 (2020年12月30日)
7、2020時尚界大事回顧
2020，絕對是全世界都不易走過的一年，來到最後一天，祈願彩虹再現。環球經濟同步走下坡，首當其衝是零售業界，尤其奢侈品市場，裁員結業等壞消息無可避免。還幸，今時今日地球人已習慣生活於高科技之下，新常態見證了人類強大的應變能力。轉型舉辦 上時裝周、為支持醫護而投產防疫用品、堅持新店擴張計畫等等，正能量依然積極地發放。Life must go on，期待2021年的來臨，我們更懂得活在當下，以正面態度迎來新挑戰。
Fashion Week新常態
今年1月底，新冠肺炎疫情蔓延至歐洲，首先遭受嚴重影響的是意大利北部工業城市倫巴第，然後迅速擴散至米蘭周邊及威尼斯等地區。於2月18日至24日舉行的米蘭時裝周，雖如常進行，卻於末段出現變化。Giorgio Armani秋冬女裝騷舉行前一天，品牌突然緊急宣布，為保障與會者免因人群聚集而受感染，將原定米蘭時間2月23日舉行的花生騷，改以閉門形式進行，會場不接待觀眾，Catwalk如常走，並在品牌旗下網上平台現場直播。緊隨米蘭舉行的巴黎時裝周，大致如常，卻因當時世界多國已封關或嚴格實施海外人士入境限制，整體氣氛已不及往年。
2020秋冬時裝周過後，四大時裝之都陸續為其後的多個季度時裝周而作出應變，不同品牌各自籌謀，有的宣告從此不再跟隨大會日程、有的改以另類模式發布新系列，當然也有堅持製作實體騷的單位。但6月的巴黎男裝周及7月初的高級訂製服時裝周都相繼取消，米蘭男裝周延期合併於9月女裝周發表等轉變，還有紐約及倫敦方面全面改為舉辦 上時裝周等措施，已為這一年帶來令人意料之外的新面貌。
然而有危也有機，有數據指， 上時裝周更進一步擴大參與及觀看人數，在疫境之下，吸納了一群以往無法參與的人士，當中正包括海外買家，令部分品牌及設計師成功開展新出路。
資料來源：頭條日報 (2020年12月31日)
8、2020 in Review: All the Big Fashion Names That Filed for Bankruptcy
The year 2020 will be remembered for the breathtaking pace of bankruptcies across fashion and retail.
The industry saw at least 48 retail and fashion bankruptcies—including three mall owners—in the U.S. and overseas. Many firms were already struggling before the pandemic hit, and were barely able to keep their operations afloat. With little to no reserves, these companies just didn’t have the ability to withstand any additional hits to their cash flow. And the lack of cash flow was the one thing that was common to all when local governments mandated that nonessential retailers shut down temporarily to help curb the spread of the virus. But even when stores began to reopen, many consumers either stayed away due to fear or social distancing protocols. And while online shopping became the go-to strategy, that became a double-edged sword in retail. Many companies never made the required digital investments in their online platforms, and even for those that did, online presented lower margins on higher fulfillment costs.
These are the major retailers and fashion brands that went bankrupt in 2020.
Beales
When: Jan. 20
Backstory: The U.K. department store declared insolvency in January and a month later, it shuttered 12 of its 23 locations. However, the chain couldn’t find a buyer and the coronavirus outbreak forced the remaining 11 locations closed.
Pier 1 Imports
When: Feb. 17
Backstory: The home goods retailer liquidated operations, closing 500 stores in the process, before Retail Ecommerce Ventures (REV) acquired its IP and related assets for $31 million with a relaunch in mind.
Modell’s Sporting Goods
When: March 11
Backstory: Covid-19 disrupted Modell’s liquidation plans after filing for bankruptcy. REV, which also owns the Dressbarn and RadioShack nameplates, acquired Modell’s for $3.6 million.
Laura Ashley Holdings
When: March 17
Backstory: The company collapsed into administration following the U.K.’s coronavirus store closures. Gordon Brothers purchased its IP and similar assets in April, and a Next Plc license will revive the brand’s home products.
Esprit
When: March 27
Backstory: Esprit said several German subsidiaries had applied for Protective Shield Proceedings under German law to restructure liabilities and long-term leases.
Galeria Karstadt Kaufhof
When: April 1
Backstory: Germany’s biggest department store retailer filed for administrative insolvency. The company, which closed 40 of its 172 stores, exited insolvency proceedings on Sept. 30.
Debenhams
When: April 9
Backstory: This U.K. department store retailer fell into administration and liquidated its Irish stores. With a full liquidation on the horizon, suitors like Michael Ashley and Authentic Brands Group are said to be mulling a deal.
True Religion
When: April 13
Backstory: The denim brand had emerged from Chapter 11 proceedings four months later. The April filing was a so-called Chapter 22, its second filing after its first tour of bankruptcy court in 2017.
Oasis and Warehouse
When: April 15
Backstory: Another early victim of the coronavirus, the U.K. high fashion brands fell into administration. Hilco Capital agreed to buy its intellectual property assets, but two months later, Boohoo bought assets including IP.
J. Hilburn
When: May 1
Backstory: Men’s custom clothier J. Hilburn was one of the first retailers to emerge from Chapter 11, acquired by The Apparel Group (TAG), its largest trade vendor.
J. Crew Group
When: May 4
Backstory: Despite a huge debt load stemming from a leveraged buyout, the specialty chain exited Chapter 22 on Sept. 10, after being taken over by its lender and converting $1.6 billion of secured debt into equity.
John Varvatos
When: May 6
Backstory: The rock ‘n’ roll menswear brand was one of the early victims of the pandemic, but it reached an agreement with majority owner and investor Lion Capital to sell the business to it as part a reorganization.
Neiman Marcus Group
When: May 7
Backstory: The luxury department store had been struggling with a heavy debt load on its balance sheet after two leveraged buyouts. It emerged from bankruptcy in September, wiping out nearly $4 billion in pre-petition debt.
Aldo Group
When: May 7
Backstory: The Canadian footwear retailer filed for bankruptcy in Canada, the U.S. and Switzerland. Bushell Investment Group bought the U.K. arm, and will keep all 11 stores and e-commerce open.
Stage Stores
When: May 11
Backstory: The struggling retailer seemed to have found a new model when switching over to the Gordmans off-price concept, but Covid-19 thwarted those plans. The Chapter 11 filing helped it conduct an orderly wind down.
J.C. Penney
When: May 15
Backstory: Penney’s survived bankruptcy court through sheer grit, thanks to the help of bankruptcy attorneys, lenders and its two largest mall landlords, Simon Property Group and Brookfield Asset Management, who needed the retailer to stay in business and keep its stores open.
Centric Brands
When: May 18
Backstory: In February, the Zac Posen brand sold to Centric Brands, which quickly went bankrupt as Covid-19 “constrained” cash flow. Centric exited Chapter 11 in October, with lenders holding equity stakes.
DVF Studio U.K.
When: May 24
Backstory: DVF Studio U.K. went into administration after its flagship store closed amid Covid-19. DVF Studio’s parent company, DVF Studio LLC, closed 18 stores, leaving a single store open Manhattan in addition to online.
Tuesday Morning
When: May 27
Backstory: The off-price home discounter closed 230 stores while in bankruptcy, and is expected to emerge before the end of 2020 with 500 locations still open.
Victoria’s Secret U.K.
When: June 5
Backstory: The U.K. arm of Victoria’s Secret fell into administration, but received a new lease on life through a joint venture between L Brands Inc. and Next PLC, with Next the majority owner holding a 51 percent stake. The joint venture will operate VS stores in the U.K. and Ireland. The online operation of VS is still operated by U.S. parent L Brands and will be folded into the joint venture next spring.
Intu
When: June 26
Backstory: U.K.’s largest shopping mall owner failed to strike a deal with creditors and collapsed into administration. The company owns and operates 17 shopping malls across the U.K.
Seafolly
When: June 29
Backstory: Seafolly is Australia’s largest swimwear brand. It has 44 stores in its domestic market and 12 locations overseas. The brand was sold back to its original owners.
TM Lewin
When: June 30
Backstory: The 66-unit U.K. men’s chain—it also operated five locations in Australia—collapsed into administration in June. Founded in 1898, the brand was sold to Torque Brands.
Lucky Brand
When: July 3
Backstory: Denim retailer Lucky Brand Dungarees, a fixture at shopping malls, was acquired in August mall landlord Simon Property Group’s Sparc joint venture with brand management firm Authentic Brands Group.
G-Star Raw
When: July 3
Backstory: The denim brand filed for bankruptcy protection to reassess and restructure its store portfolio. A bankruptcy filing in Australia shut all 57 stores after failing to find a buyer.
Brooks Brothers
When: July 8
Backstory: Troubles at Brooks Brothers had been simmering for years, and the coronavirus store closures didn’t help its cash flow. Sparc—the Simon Property Group and Authentic Brands Group joint venture—offered to buy the brand as a going concern out of Chapter 11 for $305 million.
Muji USA
When: July 10
Backstory: The U.S. arm of Japanese retailer Muji operates 18 doors and is expected to restructure operations to refocus sales online. Known for its minimalist home goods, Muji also sells personalizable apparel.
RTW Retailwinds
When: July 13
Backstory: The company, which operates women’s apparel chains under the nameplates New York & Co., Fashion to Figure and Happy x Nature, filed a voluntary Chapter 11 petition. Saadia Group paid $40 million for the New York & Co. and Fashion to Figure nameplates, and will operate them online.
Coldwater Creek
When: July 20
After filing a Chapter 11 petition, the women’s chain, whose stores never reopened after coronavirus shutdowns, was later acquired by Newtimes Group for $12.2 million. The online site was relaunched on Dec. 17.
Ascena Retail Group
When: July 23
Backstory: The company had been struggling for several quarters, and had already sold a majority stake in Maurices and wound down Dress Barn. Covid and mandatory store closures pushed the company into Chapter 11. It sold Catherines to FullBeauty Brands Operations LLC for $40.8 million in September and Justice to Bluestar Alliance for $90 million in November. On Dec. 8, the bankruptcy court gave its approval for Ascena to sell its remaining brands—Ann Taylor, Loft, Lane Bryant and Lou & Grey—to private equity firm Sycamore Partners for $540 million.
Chico’s Canada
When: July 30
Backstory: The Canadian operations of Chico’s FAS filed for bankruptcy in July and it has now exited that market. It had operated four Chico’s stores and six White House Black Market doors.
Lord & Taylor and parent Le Tote
When: Aug. 2
Backstory: The initial plan was to liquidate 19 store while searching for a buyer. It later upped the number of closures to 24, hoping to keep 14 open. Failing to find a buyer, it decided to liquidate and shutter all doors.
Tailored Brands
When: Aug. 2
Backstory: Too much debt from its $1.8 billion Jos. A. Banks acquisition was exacerbated by a lack of cash flow when Covid-19 temporarily closed stores. The plan was to close up to 500 stores, leaving it with 775 doors. The company exited bankruptcy on Dec. 1.
Stein Mart
When: Aug. 12
Backstory: The 281-door department store operator had already let go of most of its employees when it filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy court protection. REV purchased its IP for $6.0 million and will relaunch online.
Escada
When: Sept. 7
Backstory: German apparel manufacturer Escada SE filed for insolvency in Munich, affecting only its German operations, which had previously gone bankrupt in 2009. There are currently eight stores in operation in Germany.
Century 21
When: Sept. 10
Backstory: This off-pricer with 13 stores was forced to shut down after insurance providers declined to pay $175 million to protect against business disruptions during the pandemic. The matter is currently in litigation, but any victory would be for the benefit of creditors and will be of no help in saving the chain.
Pennsylvania Real Estate Investment Trust
When: Nov. 1
Backstory: PREIT filed its Chapter 11 petition as a prepackaged plan backed by 95 percent of its voting lenders.
CBL Properties
When: Nov. 2
Backstory: One of the first casualty among mall REITS, CBL had signed a restructuring support with certain lenders back in August and finally filed on Nov. 2. The plan is to eliminate $1.5 billion in debt and obligations.
Furla USA
When: Nov. 6
Backstory: The U.S. subsidiary of luxury brand Furla SpA saw wholesale accounts impacted by store closures and a lack of tourism. The company filed its Chapter 11 petition to get rid of leases and lower its debt.
Edinburgh Woollen Mill
When: Nov. 7
Backstory: Edinburgh operates 380 stores in mostly tourist-heavy locations. Homewares retailer Ponden Homes also collapsed into administration as well. Both are part of the Edinburgh Woolen Mill Group.
L.K. Bennett
When: Nov. 12
Backstory: The company opted for a company voluntary arrangement, which gives it a measure of control over restructuring and means most creditors and landlords are on board. It’s the brand’s second insolvency in two years.
Peacocks
When: Nov. 19
Backstory: Edinburgh Woollen Mill Group owner Philip Day was hoping to secure a buyer for the value-focused department store chain. So far, the chain has nabbed a management buyout offer from a senior e-comm executive.
Jaeger
When: Nov. 19
Backstory: Jaeger is also a part of the Edinburgh Woollen Mill Group. There were talks with potential buyers for the business, which also includes the Jacques Vert and Austin Reed brands. Those discussions are said to be ongoing.
Moss Bros
When: Nov. 27
Backstory: The U.K. men’s retailer launched a company voluntary arrangement and is in talks to work out deals with landlords and other creditors.
Arcadia Group
When: Nov. 30
Backstory: The owner of Topshop filed during the U.K. second round of mandatory store closures. Arcadia has about 450 stores in the U.K, and 22 doors overseas. So far there’s no word on new planned store closures.
Bonmarché
When: Dec. 2
Backstory: This women’s fashion chain collapsed into administration for the second time in just over a year after its acquisition by value chain Peacock’s. For now, Bonmarché‘s 225 stores remain open.
Francesca’s
When: Dec. 3
Backstory: The women’s budget chain filed its Chapter 11 petition to sell the business to TerraMar Capital. The company operated 558 stores at the time of its filing, but had already closed 137 stores last month. Days after its filing, Francesca’s said it would shutter another 97 stores.
Source: www.sourcingjournal.com (30 Dec 2020)
9、The State of Fashion 2021: In search of promise in perilous times
The fifth annual State of Fashion report by The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company forecasts the continuation of tough trading conditions next year, forcing companies to find their ‘silver linings strategies.’ Download the full report to understand the 10 themes that will define the global fashion industry in 2021 and how to navigate the currents they create.
Video from The Business of Fashion (BOF):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=de6LxWaN37o&feature=youtu.be or
To download the report, please click:
Source: www.mckinsey.com & www.businessoffashion.com (2 Dec 2020)
10、B2B Fashion, Reimagined
Discover the digital events bringing fashion brands and buyers together for continued commerce.
Source: www.sourcingjournal.com (28 Dec 2020)
11、JCPenney’s Jill Soltau Is Out as Retailer’s New Owners Split Company
The new owners of JCPenney replaced Chief Executive Officer Jill Soltau less than a month after re-launching the department store chain that went bankrupt during the pandemic.
Soltau will depart Dec. 31 and be succeeded by Stanley Shashoua, the chief investment officer of Simon Property Group Inc., while a search for a new CEO is conducted, according to a statement Wednesday. Mall owners Simon and Brookfield Asset Management Inc. acquired the retail operations of J.C. Penney Co. to help keep one of their biggest tenants in business. The brief, two-paragraph announcement gave no explanation for the CEO change.
The departure is another burden for the struggling department store chain, which made rapid-fire leadership changes over the past decade as a series of turnaround plans fell short. While it wouldn’t be unusual for new owners to bring in a new leader, restarting the process could hurt JCPenney as it tries to right the company, said David Swartz, equity analyst at Morningstar Inc.
“It’s not great news,” Swartz said.
Turnaround Plan
Soltau, hired in October 2018, was in the middle of overseeing her own turnaround plan and putting a new team in place when the Covid-19 pandemic swept the globe this year and temporarily shuttered many retail stores. By May, J.C. Penney Co. was bankrupt. She remained in the top job throughout the bankruptcy process, and the new owners highlighted her comments as CEO in the Dec. 7 announcement of the relaunch under the JCPenney name.
Simon and Brookfield plan to establish a temporary office of the CEO that will include members of JCPenney’s current management team, according to the statement. J.C. Penney Co. was split up during the bankruptcy into the operating company, which is owned by the mall operators, while lenders get the property company. The latter remains in the Chapter 11 process and is expected to emerge in the first half of 2021.
Penney’s troubles were longstanding before Soltau’s arrival. She became the company’s fifth CEO in seven years -- fourth if you count Mike Ullman’s reprise tenure -- in an effort to make the mall stalwart a more compelling destination. The carousel started in 2011 when activist investor William Ackman pushed for Ullman’s ouster in favor of Ron Johnson, fresh off triumphs at Target Corp. and Apple stores.
Previous Plan
Johnson envisioned not so much a turnaround as a wholesale refabrication of the company. At a splashy event by the Hudson River introducing his plan, he vowed to end the cycle of endless sales and instead train customers to buy at fair prices. He redesigned stores to feature boutique brands built around a so-called town square. Sales in his first year plunged 25%, and in 2013, the company replaced him with Ullman after less than two years.
Marvin Ellison, who took over after Ullman retired, left to become CEO at Lowe’s Cos. after less than two years.
Soltau came over from leading craft chain Jo-Ann Stores Inc., and before that was an executive at now-defunct Midwestern department store chain Shopko Stores Inc. Soltau worked to improve inventory management and lure more shoppers by revamping merchandise.
There were signs of progress when the company reported its year-end earnings in late February, with improved women’s clothing sales and better-than-expected results.
Now, as an intensifying pandemic threatens more disruption and store closings, “it would be much smoother” if Soltau could continue steering the turnaround, or if the company had a plan in place, Swartz said.
Source: www.msn.com (30 Dec 2020)
12、Macy’s CEO: Covid-19 Forced ‘Plan A, Plan B and then Plan 22’
Three of fashion’s top chief executives revealed the challenges they faced and strategies they employed to weather Covid-19’s worst impacts.
Macy’s chief Jeff Gennette
“Agility is not a new concept for business, especially for retail, which has never been for the faint of heart. Looking back, I never knew what agility meant until Covid hit,” Macy’s Inc. CEO Jeff Gennette said at the WWD Virtual Apparel and Retail Summit, noting that the company was forced to shut off 75 percent of its revenue stream virtually overnight when coronavirus store shutdowns began in March.
“That was a shock to the system. So, we wrote the playbook along the way [and] we built new muscles that will serve us for the future,” he added.
Macy’s scrambled to hoard cash and pull “every lever available to us,” like canceling orders and delaying deliveries. It also pivoted to a digital-first mentality go serve shoppers suddenly cut off from stores, and then moved trapped inventory by having department store teams fulfill over half of its online orders from those locations.
According to Gennette, Macy’s “learned to become more scrappy” as a result of the pandemic. “Initially, curbside pickup was a hack” that launched in April and “served our customers until we could develop Curbside 2.0” in the following weeks, he said.
Now that the dust is settling after the adrenaline rush of reworking the business at the drop of a dime, Macy’s is figuring out how to keep the momentum going.
“The velocity of change in customer habits was a remap of the customer journey. We listened to our customers, we followed the data and we pivoted quickly where needed,” Gennette said, adding that if customers were going to be on Zoom calls, then Macy’s needs to get them the right fashion options.
Extending the range of fulfillment options was also another example of how Macy’s “successfully manage[d]” the channel shift.
“This is the kind of year you create Plan A, Plan B and then Plan 22. True agility is being able to pivot and develop quickly,” Genette said.
Ralph Lauren’s Patrice Louvet
Meanwhile, Patric Louvet wasn’t exactly thrilled when, at a company meeting, he faced the question: “How can we at Ralph Lauren accelerate digital and be a leader in this space?”
“It wasn’t the most comfortable question to answer,” he admitted. And even though Ralph Lauren had attracted some key talent and made some digital investments, “We were behind,” Louvet acknowledged.
The CEO is spearheading the next initiative at the company—Next Great Chapter plan—to position Ralph Lauren for growth, where “[l]eading with digital remains a priority for us.”
The pandemic and 2020 as a whole have reflected how the company has used “digital to help deliver Ralph’s creative vision to consumers around the world,” Louvet said.
While the apparel giant’s early investments in digital gained some traction, it was the pandemic that pushed the company to “create new digital approaches we never dreamed of before,” Louvet said. That meant finding new ways to engage with consumers, while focusing on how they were now living through the pandemic. Consumers were not focused on their closets, but on their family and their health, he said. So the company pivoted its digital approach to content, using the platform to engage via “Ralph Lauren at Home.” New content was aimed to appeal to kids, while a recipe for brownies from the mother of founder and chief creative officer Ralph Lauren made its way to the site. Along the way, the company added a virtual showroom and online clienteling. And the entire Ralph Lauren store in Beverly Hills was shoppable “online using augmented reality so you can shop there wherever you may be in the world,” Louvet said.
“Years of digital adoption [were done] in a matter of months and the pace will only accelerate. In fact, we just scratched the surface of what is possible,” he added.
In a truly connected world, Louvet says companies must consider the evolving role of the store. Is four-wall store profitability still a relevant metric or is there a new way to capture the digital consumer? And how can fashion companies leverage AI without inadvertently introducing bias? Louvet also mulled how can digital tools assist in helping fashion companies deliver product faster.
And lest fashion executives think the idea of “feeling” is just about the sensation of fabrics on the skin, Louvet said it also encompasses the emotional connection with consumers and how digital can enable all those moments of connection between the consumer and the brand.
“The challenge and the opportunity now is to be able to answer them digitally,” Louvet said.
Michelle Gass of Kohl’s
“The retail industry was especially confronted with unprecedented issues and faced a massive amount of change [including] where the consumer is headed and how to adapt to meet them there,” Gass said.
At Kohl’s, a focus on consumer behavior has been key at driving innovation and new thinking to deliver to customers the ideal experience, whether that’s including new brands or enhancements to services and new conveniences.
Gass called Kohl’s new partnership with beauty retailer Sephora an elevated transformational experience in 2021, when the cosmetics giant’s shop-in-shops will launch inside 200 of the department stores.
In studying where the consumer is going, Kohl’s embarked on a path of “bold aspirational vision for the company to be the most trusted retailer of choice for the active and casual lifestyle,” a move that differentiate Kohl’s, Gass said.
Kohl’s has seen three shifts since the pandemic. “Families are living more actively and casually than ever before [and] the importance of value has never been greater,” she said, noting the seismic shift to digital commerce, the third big trend.
As for getting out and about, Gass said for the first time ever, more people are exercising now than before, paving the way for Kohl’s to be the destination for activewear and fitness gear. The company this year has doubled its active business from 2013 levels, and she noted the ability to grow the category. It’s now 20 percent and could become at least 30 percent of the overall business at Kohl’s. “All indications are that the trend will accelerate in the coming months and years ahead and it’s a large focus for the company,” the CEO said.
And while the pandemic has dramatically increased the number of customers now comfortable shopping online, Gass was quick to point out that the shift doesn’t necessarily signal brick and mortar’s demise. “There will be a place for great brick-and-mortar retailers,” she said, adding that “it’s not an ‘or,’ it’s an ‘and.'”
Kohl’s entered the pandemic with a strong omnichannel platform, which became more critical during the outbreak, and it changed the site experience to focus on categories that have become more important to its customers, It also offered curbside pickup shortly after the pandemic hit.
“This has been a year that none of us expected. It’s presented extraordinary challenges, but also some big opportunities,” Gass said.
Source: www.sourcingjournal.com (28 Dec 2020)