2020.12.11
INDUSTRY NEWS - 2020.12.11
1、時裝產業耗資源 成衣科研解痛點 H&M基金會新5年計劃 強調科技商業應用
疫情衝擊全球零售業，速食時裝更是節節敗退，不時傳出結業消息，科技革新能否助品牌力挽狂瀾？H&M基金會Innovation Lead Erik Bang認為，成衣科技有助應對營運危機，亦可回應消費者需求。
零售市道慘淡，Erik Bang相信不論是網上或是實體商戶，亦需要應對現時的挑戰。他認為科技研發並非旨在提供理想化的解決方案，而是針對行業痛點，提供貼地、可實際應用的技術，解決營運危機。
水熱分離 日處理1.5噸紡織物
Erik續指，時裝產業需要大量資源如水、土地、能源，資源逐漸消耗，成本及競爭將會增加。環保法例、公眾關注亦會為品牌帶來壓力，最終仍靠成衣科技回應公眾、社會需求。
H&M基金會自2016年開始，與香港紡織及成衣研發中心合作，推動紡織及時裝業的可持續發展。該會將捐款1,200萬美元（約9,300萬港元），推動技術研發。其中一個已推出商業應用項目，是水熱分離系統（The Green Machine），MONKI是首個應用的品牌。上月底，該技術首次在印尼工廠應用，藉熱能、水、檸檬酸，每日處理1.5噸紡織物料，並且重新紡紗，供應予MONKI的時裝系列。
H&M基金會及研發中心昨日亦公布新一輪5年合作計劃，強調科技商業應用。香港紡織及成衣研發中心行政總裁葛儀文指出，5年計劃內的部分技術可於明年初推出，例如可攝取二氧化碳的T-Shirt、利用大型藻類分解牛仔布靛藍染料等。
擬在港設 應用研發實驗室
除了擴大及改良現有技術之應用外，考慮到香港於全球供應鏈的角色，H&M基金會與研發中心亦計劃在香港設立專注應用研發的實驗室。
葛儀文透露，現時仍是初步籌備階段，正招募創始及合作團隊，準備添置、搬運設備等。Erik Bang亦指，現時正與香港的土地、物業業主溝通，冀明年初可公布更具體的計劃。
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2020年12月9日)
2、Calvin Klein與Tommy Hilfiger 急需一個突破口
12月3日，Calvin Klein母公司PVH集團發佈2020三季度財報，CEO Emanuel Chirico在報告中提到，集團在海外市場、休閒品類以及線上管道三方面增幅明顯，第三季度的營收表現超過整體預期。
截止11.1的三個月報告期內，PVH集團總營收同比下降18%至21.18億美元；錄得淨利潤1.32億美元，與同期相比降幅達53%；前三季度營收同比下降31%至50.43億美元。
值得注意的是，由於在前三季度虧損達6600萬美元，基於成本考慮和未來戰略調整，PVH集團在今年7月宣佈精簡北美地區架構，到2021年中將剝離占集團業務總量10%的Heritage Brands並關閉其162家零售門店。此外，PVH集團還將對旗下三個品牌進行人員架構調整，裁員規模達450人。
與此同時，集團旗下的兩個主力品牌Calvin Klein和Tommy Hilfiger（需求面積：80-200平方米； 代表專案：福州萬象·九宜城，北京國貿商城等）也在積極調整戰略重心。
由於利潤回報低於預期，Calvin Klein繼2018年與前創意總監Raf Simons分道揚鑣並砍掉高端成衣線後，在今年年底邀請了Nike創意總監Jessica Lomax出任其新任總監，主力打造休閒產品線，引領集團更好地融合藝術與商業。第三季度，Calvin Klein營收同比下降18%至7.9億美元，北美市場同比減少39%，國際市場同比減少4%。為了刺激相對低迷的北美市場，今年，Calvin Klein在廣告中啟用了一名黑人跨性別者Jari Jones作為模特，希望在傳達審美多元文化的同時取悅北美消費者。
相較於Calvin Klein致力於發展香水、內衣、休閒服裝等多產品線策略，Tommy Hilfiger則更注重加碼數位化。從2019年開始，Tommy Hilfiger陸續放棄了一些位於如第五大道等黃金地段的實體門店，嘗試推廣了“未來概念店”。此類店內展示的產品種類較少，消費者主要通過數字顯示器進行挑選、智慧試穿和購買等一系列流程，立志于為顧客打造一種新的零售消費體驗的同時提高門店運營效率並減少庫存。作為集團占比最大的品牌，Tommy Hilfiger第三季度營收同比下降12%至10.9億美元，北美市場同比減少37%，國際市場同比減少6%。
疫情對線下門店的打擊使線上平臺反應迅速，PVH集團第三季度全管道銷售額同比下降11%，其中線上管道銷售總額同比增長36%。由於第四季度約40%位於歐洲的門店仍將縮短營業時間或閉門歇業，集團預計四季度的零售管道銷售額將下滑25%。
資料來源：贏商網 (2020年12月7日)
3、中國出口飆21.1% 貿易順差破頂
內地最新出口數據令市場喜出望外，中國海關總署公布，以美元計價，11月出口按年飆升21.1%，增速為2018年2月以來最快，遠勝預期的增長12%；10月則升11.4%。
11月進口僅升4.5%遜預期
11月進口增4.5%，較預估的增長6.1%為差。至於同期貿易順差754.2億美元，創紀錄新高，躍升102.9%，市場料為535億美元。經濟師表示，出口大增受惠於全球疫情下歐美更依賴中國供應商品、外國對醫療用品需求旺盛，以及低基數效應影響，預測12月及明年首季仍可保持高增長。
倘若以人民幣計價，11月出口增長14.9%，進口下降0.8%，當月實現貿易順差5071億元人民幣。今年首11個月計，出口達2.31萬億美元，按年增長2.5%；進口1.86萬億美元，較去年同期略跌1.6%；貿易順差4599.2億美元，大增23%。
防疫品電腦海外需求反彈
按貨物種類分析，11月份多項重點商品出口均呈現雙位數增長，疫情爆發後一直是主要拉動引擎的醫療儀器及器械，期內出口按年大漲38.2%，並較10月時回升8.2個百分點；包括口罩在內的紡織品則增長21%，較10月加速6.1個百分點；涵蓋筆記型電腦、平板電腦等的自動資料處理設備及其零部件，11月增長34.3%，增速反彈7.7個百分點。
如按國家地區劃分，中國11月對多個主要市場出口均見改善，尤以歐美為甚，當中對美國出口按年大升46.1%，較10月多23.6個百分點；對歐盟出口增速由負轉正，從10月下降7%，轉為11月增長8.6%；對東盟出口增速亦回升2.7個百分點，至10%。
累計首11個月，東盟繼續成為中國第一大貿易夥伴，貿易總值6095.79億美元，增5.6%；與歐盟貿易總值5812.77億美元，升3.5%；對美國的貿易總值5242.89億美元，漲5.8%，為第三大貿易夥伴。期內出口及進口增幅最大地區均為越南，分別增長15.1%及21%；中國貨輸往印度急跌13%，而內地進口香港商品則大減24.3%，為今年以來中國進口金額跌幅最顯著地區。
野村證券中國首席經濟學家陸挺指出，海外疫情反覆，個人防護用品和居家辦公產品需求11月見反彈，預計未來數月中國出口仍將維持在高位。
摩根大通稱，11月中國出口美國及歐盟大增46.1%及8.6%，是主要加速動力，而內地疫情受控且廠商恢復正常產能，不似其他產地仍面對疫情打擊，各國短期只好向中國採購商品，令內地生產商的市場份額得以增加。
明年首季料保持雙位增幅
中信銀行（國際）首席經濟師廖群認為，出口數據向好，受惠於中國製口罩及醫療用品等疫情相關商品需求懇切，加上各地經濟受疫情困擾，故依賴中國出口的需求上升，而且貿易戰下中國對東盟及一帶一路沿線國家的出口工作帶來成效；去年同期低基數也是增長原因之一，至於聖誕節需求則每年相若，並非出口增長主因。
廖群預計，12月中國出口狀況仍可持續，但未必能再大升逾20%，相信明年首季可保持雙位數增幅；往後要視乎疫情及疫苗接種情況，對改善全球經濟及商品需求的作用。
市場憧憬美國候任總統拜登將促進貿易爭議降溫，廖群估計，拜登上場後應率先處理國內問題，加上他表明不會馬上調整現有中美關稅制裁措施，惟相信假以時日，美方仍有望調整對華關稅。談及中國與澳洲的貿易關係惡化，他指澳洲佔中國出口比重不大，影響輕微，而澳洲進口產品相對影響大，但可由其他國家購買替代產品彌補。
資料來源：信報財經 (2020年12月8日)
4、貿發局料港明年出口升5% 業界信心改善 市況仍艱難
隨着第三季出口恢復正增長，出口業界信心回升。貿發局修訂對今年出口的預測，由挫10%上調至縮3%，並預測明年香港整體出口貨值按年上升5%。
港出口指數連漲三季
貿發局解釋，預測明年出口回復正增長，除了因為今年基數較低，亦與業界信心改善有關；第四季香港出口指數為36.2，為連續三季回升，雖仍處50以下的收縮區域，但反映港商出口信心逐步改善，有近六成受訪者預計明年銷售額將增加或持平。
貿發局研究總監關家明表示，雖然近月出口表現較預期好，但不代表已見需求復甦，因即使明年能實現出口按年增5%，其實仍低於兩年前的水平。他指出，香港出口表現較亞洲其他國家好，或因港商適應力強，但留意到今季調查中有27.6%受訪港商指要降低單價，應對疫情影響，較上一季的22%顯著增加，業界要減價吸客，顯示市況依然艱難，「有得做不代表有得食」。
對於要恢復到疫情前水平，關家明認為，外部情況難以預測，但估計最壞情況或已過，而V形反彈的機會不大，因歐美疫情較反覆，最快可能到2022年才復甦，認為廠商除了要關注歐美及日本等傳統市場，亦不可放棄開拓其他新市場。
第四季出口指數【見表】方面，電子及機械行業屬最高，分別為36.4及39.5。貿發局稱，受惠於疫情下在家工作及學習而衍生的「宅經濟」，市場對電腦、攝影鏡頭、收音器等需求大增，香港電子出口商亦對明年市道感到樂觀。
27.6%商家須減價搶單
調查亦顯示，逾八成港商認為疫情持續，對業務構成負面影響，當中包括訂單縮減、與海外買家及供應商的合約受影響，以及被取消訂單。
為應對影響，27.6%港商指要降低單價；21.8%要縮減公司規模，包括裁員；21.8%須發展網上銷售渠道。
問到美國新政府上場對香港出口業前景的影響，關家明相信，新政府不太可能大幅度改變現行對中國及香港的貿易政策，關稅要回到過往水平亦需要時間，但相信對業界而言，營商環境的困難會改善，地緣政治方面會較穩定及可預期。
對於香港爭取加入《區域全面經濟夥伴關係協定》（RCEP），關家明說，該十多個已簽署的國家中，部分本身與香港已有自由貿易協議或特定關稅表，RCEP未必對相關貿易帶來大轉變，尤其香港更重視服務方面出口，RCEP在服貿的新內容不多，但香港加入可保證長遠未來發展。
資料來源：信報財經 (2020年12月10日)
5、進軍灣區拓內銷 把握雙循環商機
還有不到3星期，2020年便過去；這一年，非比尋常。疫情肆虐，打擊全球經濟，國際商貿步入新常態，為企業帶來重重挑戰。雖然世界各地的實體展覽及商貿活動因疫情受阻，貿發局仍積極靈活應對，推出各項數碼平台，包括「秋季採購匯｜網上展」及綫上的國際會議，例如亞洲物流航運及空運會議、一帶一路高峰論壇，鞏固香港作為全球商貿展覽及會議中心的地位。今年我們推行的T-box（Transformation Sandbox）計劃更深入幫助中小企，參與T-box的港商可以透過我們的支援服務，開拓新市場，提升服務及產品，或穩步轉向數碼化。
大灣區作試點 認識內地市場
疫情令各國經濟增長放緩，不過中國卻例外。國際貨幣基金組織（IMF）預期，今年全球經濟按年下跌4.4%，而中國則「疫」市升1.9%，是全球唯一實現經濟正增長的主要經濟體，加上早前中央提及「暢通國內大循環，促進國內國外雙循環」的發展策略，強調以內需拉動經濟增長，刺激更多消費需求，為港商帶來新機遇。例如，今年「雙十一」購物節總成交額高達4,982億人民幣，刷新紀錄。中國市場潛力巨大，香港貿發局將全力協助港商進入龐大的內銷市場。
然而，內地擁有獨特的分銷網絡、消費文化、多元的綫上綫下行銷渠道以及不同的法規，要成功進入這市場並不容易。港商必須認識內地的「新零售」模式，綫上綫下同時進行銷售及推廣，並加速數碼化升級轉型，包括通過利用內地最流行的社交平台和手機程式。而從未進入內地市場的港商則可以「粵港澳大灣區」為試點，並善用跨境電商服務。
3大措施 助港商打入灣區
為令港商更易打入內銷市場及大灣區，貿發局推出了以下3大措施協助中小企：
第一，我們計劃明年推出「GoGBA」一站式平台，協助港商進軍大灣區市場，平台服務涵蓋大灣區相關營商資訊及生活指南、市場及政策資訊、會議展覽及推廣活動等，協助往返大灣區工作和生活的港商加快適應融入社區。
第二，我們正積極籌備在深圳開設「T-Box大灣區服務中心」，全面提升貿發局深圳辦事處的功能，透過「T-box升級轉型計劃」，更進一步協助港企拓展大灣區市場。
企業在轉型時要考慮多方面的因素，包括財政、人力資源是否能配合，落實轉型的時間表及目標，後備方案等。「T-box計劃」邀請逾百商會、組織、專家做顧問，為港商解決疑難，並推薦合適的服務，包括商務諮詢、工作坊、政府資助、市場資訊及交流機會，協助港商掌握趨勢、提升技能、擴展商脈，從而作出明智的商業決策。
貿發局亦將在大灣區推出「企業國際化服務計劃」，創造機會給服務業的港商參與大灣區企業投資海外的項目，培育以大灣區為根的中國跨國企業。
第三，現時港商若在內地沒有公司或合作夥伴的情況下開拓內銷市場，經常會遇到各類難題，包括進口報關、物流配送、銷售營運、稅款安排、貨款結算等。貿發局看準市場所需，推出了「寄售易」（ConsignEasy）服務計劃，一站式處理這些事宜，讓中小企可以「香港交貨、香港收錢」，更輕鬆便利地善用「香港˙設計廊」的綫上綫下銷售網絡，發展內地零售業務。「香港˙設計廊」目前在內地有40多個銷售點，遍及北京、上海及大灣區，並在電商平台包括天貓、淘寶和京東商城開店。
此外，香港作為國際商貿平台，亦是亞洲區內最重要的展覽採購中心，企業亦可以引進外國品牌或產品到內地市場，拓展新的商機。貿發局新推出網上展覽及升級版「貿發網採購」平台，打破地域限制，讓港商加強與內地買家接觸，開拓新客源，建立更多商貿聯繫。
善用資源 走出困境拓新機
香港是世界上最自由的經濟體之一，並擁有遍及全球的商貿網絡，可提供與國際接軌的專業、商務和高增值服務。展望未來，貿發局將全力協助中小企把握內地「雙循環」政策，以及粵港澳大灣區所帶來的商機。
我們期望這一系列措施有助港商走出當前困境，在疫境下尋找新商機。貿發局會繼續積極配合特區政府的工作，支援中小企通過大灣區進軍內銷市場，以及進行升級轉型。我們呼籲港商善用所有資源，包括政府資助及貿發局全方位的平台來發展生意。貿發局明年亦會推出新的方針，以至一連串活動及計劃協助港商開拓新機遇，敬請各位留意。
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2020年12月11日)
6、冠華國際中期純利6,385萬跌69% 不派息
冠華國際控股(00539.HK)公布9月止六個月中期業績，收益20.87億元，按年下降18.8%。錄得純利6,385萬元，倒退68.8%，每股盈利5.3仙。不派中期息。
中期業績公告
https://www1.hkexnews.hk/listedco/listconews/sehk/2020/1130/2020113001192.pdf
https://www1.hkexnews.hk/listedco/listconews/sehk/2020/1130/2020113001193_c.pdf
資料來源：www.aastocks.com (2020年12月1日)
7、深圳灣口岸明天起貨物可 24 小時清關 日後或推旅客全日過關
香港政府表示，深圳灣管制站將於 12 月 10 日凌晨零時起，提供 24 小時貨物清關。
政府表示，為進一步便利中港物流商務來往，同時逐步落實跨境貨運「東進東出，西進西出」，港深豕地經過商討後，決定於 12 月 10 日凌晨零時起，將把深圳灣管制站的貨物清關服務時間，延長至 24 小時全日。政府補充，在延長深圳灣管制站的貨物清關時間後，港深雙方會繼續嚴格執行檢疫措施，防止病毒傳播。
雖然貨物清關會轉為 24 小時，但現時段深圳灣管制站的旅客清關服務時間仍會維持每日上午 10 時至晚上 8 時。但視乎中港疫情發展，兩地政府會考慮在深圳灣管制站推行 24 小時旅客通關服務。
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2020年12月9日)
8、特任期倒數 庫德洛：無意對華徵新稅
白宮易主在即，中美貿易現積極訊號。白宮首席經濟顧問庫德洛（Larry Kudlow）表示，美國總統特朗普（Donald Trump）無計劃在任期最後階段，對來自中國的產品徵收新關稅。
中國國務委員兼外交部長王毅則向美企高層承諾，中方會遵守首階段貿易協議，並指國務院副總理劉鶴將牽頭第二階段談判。
指京積極舉措 保護知識產權
庫德洛周一（7日）出席一個活動時表示，特朗普沒有計劃對中國貨品加徵新關稅。在貿易談判方面，兩國會保持接觸。他又指，中國大致有履行中美首階段貿易協議，購買包括大豆等在內的農產品。不過，受新冠肺炎疫情影響，購買進度滯後。
庫德洛並表示，中國似乎作出積極的舉措，在制定新法、建立新法律機構、司法機構，以及阻止竊取美國知識產權行為等方面有所進展。而知識產權問題是美國關切的重點之一。
美國候任總統拜登（Joe Biden）上周二（1日）曾經表示，在全面審查現有貿易協議之前，不會立即撤銷對中國的關稅，也不會立即採取行動取消特朗普的中美首階段貿易協議，但將致力於與其他國家合作以向北京施壓。
美企協會 盼展開次階段貿談
另一方面，美中貿易全國委員會主席艾倫（Craig Allen）表示，日前與王毅視像會議時，獲對方保證，中國仍將堅守與美國的首階段貿易協議，落實採購承諾。
美中貿易全國委員會代表240家在中國做生意的美企。該會敦促王毅，考慮有關美企的平等待遇、簽證及知識產權等希望中國政府解決的關切問題。
王毅：遵貿協 劉鶴續牽頭談判
艾倫表示，希望中美在拜登1月20日就職後，開始第二階段貿易協議的磋商。王毅則回應指，第二階段談判仍將由劉鶴牽頭，但並沒有具體說明情況。
據彼得森國際經濟研究所，截至10月，中國按首階段貿易協議購買的美國商品為755億美元，未及今年總目標1,720億美元的一半。
艾倫表示，中方進度落後，但這是一項兩年期協議。而在改變中國阻礙公平競爭環境的政策方面，這是一個成功的協議，但它尚未完成，也未結束，這正是第二階段的工作。
中美首階段貿易協議今年1月15日簽訂，協議要求中國在兩年內增加購買2,000億美元商品。
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2020年12月9日)
9、新興Art Tech求才若渴 「動態影像設計」講求全面創意
科技進步不只便利生活，更「解放」創意思維，讓更多創作可於多樣媒介平台呈現，亦造就新興行業。政府上月發表的施政報告中，亦提及要推動藝術科技(Art Tech)，以科技應用擴闊藝術創作空間。糅合攝影、動畫、圖形等多媒體創作技能的「動態影像設計」，未來可擴濶創作者空間，更成為不少廣告或宣傳製作新方向。但有業內人士指，這些設計人材須懂平面設計、攝影、繪圖等技術，作品並需以生動形式分享，故發展行業最大困難是缺乏具全面創意思維的人才，有必要加強相關培訓。
各地設計師已視動態影像為藝術創作，但香港似留於商業發展，信和集團與動態影像設計公司eMotionLAB合作，自10月起展開數個月的「Feel the Motion」計劃，冀吸引人才加入動態影像設計這個新興行業。
eMotionLAB創辦人及創意總監曾為民(圓圖右)指，動態影像設計有賴電腦技術愈趨普及，加上各類電子平台發達，例如手機、電影、大廈外牆屏幕等，讓創作變得更無限制。她解釋，動態影像不等同過去的動畫，它包含平面設計、攝影、繪圖等技術，作品可以生動形式分享資訊，例如會郁動的信息圖形(infographic)，也可作為藝術作品呈現。但行業發展最大困難是缺乏具全面創意思維的人才，舉例創作行業如廣告業，不乏導演、攝影、平面設計師等人才，惟動態影像要求設計師兼顧不同範疇，靈活變通，加上行業新興，許多公司未必了解有此工種，局限行業發展。她認為動態影像設計使內容更易消化，是重要的文化創意產業。
「Feel the Motion」計劃下邀得國際「大師」及專家辦講座，籌辦12堂「創意教學工作坊」，遴選30名學員，一對一指導完成課程。畢業作品的優秀小組或個人更會獲2萬元項目酬金，作品亦可於信和的物業內展示。而今個聖誕尖沙咀中心及帝國中心的多媒體幕牆將呈現全港最大的跳舞機，便是其中一個動態影像作品，市民身處維港對岸可隨影像起舞。
資料來源：AM730 (2020年12月11日)
10、營銷專家心法 宣傳在於刺激消費者 企業藉創造難忘體驗 獲得欣賞支持
面對新冠肺炎疫情企業陷入重重挑戰，營銷運作與預算難免受影響，特別是實體活動叫停，品牌宣傳難以在綫下推展，營銷、公關從業員叫苦連天。
營銷界老手Max Lenderman接受本報訪問時就指出，綫上、綫下營銷之分，在疫情之際未必再適用，品牌要重訂策略，專注提高品牌體驗，特別是抱持教人能夠向前望，給人信心的品牌信息，或可成功突破逆風。
據調研機構Forrester日前發布的預測，美國企業在營銷方面支出，由去年底至2022年初，將會急跌30%。該報告指，受累疫情所帶來的連鎖效應，企業的首席營銷官（Chief Marketing Officer，CMO）將只能憑更緊絀的資源，改善顧客體驗與鞏固品牌忠誠度。
推廣體驗營銷 受從業員採納
Max Lenderman曾領導多家全球大型營銷及廣告公司，多年前起他亦在各途徑推廣「體驗營銷」（Experiential Marketing）的理念，時至今日，已廣受營銷從業員採納。簡而言之，體驗營銷冀通過刺激感官與情感，強調顧客感受，讓顧客主動行動起來，消費並支持品牌。
談到疫情如何具體影響營銷行業，Lenderman指出，眼前受到最大挑戰的為旅遊、款待與娛樂相關的機構。但他亦觀察到，較近期品牌花在廣告、推廣的支出，漸有回穩迹象。他續指，未來數年，品牌如果單靠在實體活動聚集人群進行推廣，勢面對相當大的挑戰，因此在推廣模式上，必先考慮結合實體與數碼的方案。
他指出，過去10年體驗營銷已漸成主流，成為不少全球品牌宣傳推廣的工具，惟有不少人將體驗營銷視作與「活動營銷」同義，透過實體活動、甚至運動賽事、演唱會、演出等，傳揚品牌信息。在疫情下，綫下活動叫停，這觀念就受到頗大的挑戰。
他強調，重點不在乎綫上、綫下，營銷宣傳的重心在於「刺激、幫助消費者」，進行綫上營銷的品牌仍是依據這大原則。
「就算沒有舉行大型實體活動，品牌仍可有效地推廣體驗。」他強調，任何企業都可憑藉創造難忘體驗，讓消費者欣賞、支持，從而持續獲利。他舉了幾個不同範疇例子：
1.Red Bull品牌過往曾贊助超高空跳傘、以及不同類型的創新運動賽事，吸引大量消費者留意，奠定品牌具創意的形象。據網上資料，該品牌今年在疫情之下亦有繼續舉辦不同類型、有創意主題的運動項目。
2.Tesla的乘車體驗獨樹一幟，它毋須在電視上賣廣告，但在車迷間口耳相傳，現已成為全球最高市值的汽車公司。
3.消費者對飲食健康與環保的關注增加，美國連鎖麵包店Panera早於同業，在菜單上列明卡路里，又標示飲料的糖份攝取量，至近日將部分食物列為「氣候友善」，Max Lenderman認為，該企能將可持續與氣候變化議題，融入餐飲消費體驗的一部分，對其印象很深刻。
品牌是否可信賴 消費者重視
他補充，消費者在疫情後，對品牌要求有變，更重視對品牌是否值得信賴。公眾會從品牌或企業對疫情的應對--有否向公眾派發與抗疫有關產品，甚至捐贈予有需要的機構；選擇裁員或與員工共度時艱；在社會責任方面的行動會否因疫情而叫停等，重新評估品牌的印象，從而主導消費決定。他續指，新冠肺炎疫情下，如果品牌能為消費者提供「更明確的將來展望、更佳個人化服務、以及更有同理心」，將可望帶來新機遇。
CMO留意疫下趨勢 3策略提升表現
具體而言，營銷從業員如何應對新時代？《strategy+business》日前的一篇報道指出，首席營銷官（Chief Marketing Officer，CMO）可推行以下3點執行策略，應對企業內部或客戶對他們的期望：
1.設法更準確地預測消費者需求：
電商潮流、封城措施影響消費習慣，這些因素讓銷售歷史數據的參考價值成為疑問。營銷負責人要尋求方法，追蹤這些新趨勢，提供更準確數據以制定新市場策略。與第三方機構合作，並運用分析模型，預計可帶來不錯成效。
2.推動公司發明、創新，以新產品及服務應對疫情新常態：
成功的新產品在疫情下可望成為業務救星，而營銷部門可憑藉他們在前綫對客戶需求的理解，向研發部門提出意見，推動公司創新過程。
3.持續改善銷售流程的每一步的體驗：
包括公司網站、物流以至售後服務，特別是電商比重大幅增加，企業要留意電商銷售過程會否已超過原有運作負荷，並需加快應對。
主打創新 小型營銷團隊或湧現
營銷專家Max Lenderman表示，廣告營銷業界迎來巨變，特別是疫情之下，企業預算變得更緊絀，營銷公司要從客戶手上贏得合約不易，「不少公司都會問，為何要付錢予營銷公司。」他認為，不少資深的CEO、CMO都面對難題，在新常態下或會產生不少小型營銷推廣機構，主打彈性、創意與科技。
人們傾向支持 本地社區品牌
營銷轉往數碼化已非新鮮事，亦有企業自行推行數碼營銷、經營專頁、頻道。企業要求運作更彈性、更創新、貼地的營銷合作夥伴，而傳統代理在原有營商模型上，就顯得較難轉身。
Max Lenderman在上星期的設計營商周活動上分析，消費趨勢上，比起全球、人所共知的品牌，人們愈來愈傾向支持本地社區為主的品牌，它們未必有大量推廣預算，大企未必會進入這市場。
兩個趨勢下，Max Lenderman分享有不少營銷從業員都在考慮是否要繼續留在大機構，而他認為，「現在是一個創立新公司的完美時機」，新設團隊可望有更高彈性，有充分數碼技能，服務社區規模的企業，「未來5年，可能會出現一個新的營銷生態系統，帶來新的創新。」
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2020年12月9日)
11、JCPenney Completes Bankruptcy Sale. Here’s What Next.
Mass merchant JCPenney says its no longer operating under the constraints of bankruptcy court protection.
The business was sold by bankrupt J.C. Penney Co. Inc. to its two major landlords, Simon Property Group and Brookfield Asset Management. The company already secured bankruptcy court approval on Nov. 9.
“We have always been firm believers in JCPenney, and are very pleased to help preserve this iconic institution and save tens of thousands of jobs,” said David Simon, Simon’s chairman, president and CEO. “JCPenney is now poised for a future focused on innovation and consumers, while continuing to navigate through the pandemic. We are excited about JCPenney’s future growth and look forward to collaborating with the JCPenney team to serve its customers and communities.”
Brian Kingston, CEO of Real Estate at Brookfield, said the mall operator is “excited to help lead the turnaround of a storied institution while saving tens of thousands of jobs and continuing to serve over 35 million customers.”
The company’s Retail Revitalization Program was set up to make this kind of investment, Kingston added, and “along with our partner Simon we have a successful blueprint in place to deploy our collective operational expertise and industry relationships to transform JCPenney through new innovations and offerings.”
As part of the bankruptcy exit, JCPenney has access to about $1.5 billion of new financing, which includes a new asset-based lending facility led by Wells Fargo.
New JCPenney: what to know
New JCPenney, the retail operation sold to Simon and Brookfield, doesn’t own anything and represents the OpCo component noted in the bankruptcy of old J.C. Penney Co. Inc. The real estate assets are still owned by the bankrupt old company, J.C. Penney Co. Inc., which is still under bankruptcy court supervision, and those assets are still slated to be placed into two real estate investment trusts, one for 160 stores and the other for the six distribution centers. That component was referred to as PropCo in the bankruptcy and when that sale is completed, will be owned by the majority of first-lien lenders.
The bankruptcy court approved J.C. Penney’s reorganization plan that broke the business into the PropCo-OpCo holding companies. The PropCo sale is expected to be completed in the first half of 2021, JCPenney said on Monday, adding that OpCo will enter into master leases with the PropCos. While JCPenney will continue to operate the properties and distribution centers, it will rent rather than own the assets.
Also on the agenda might be the inclusion of some brands owned by Authentic Brands Group as part of JCPenney’s merchandise mix. ABG holds the licensing rights to the Shaquille O’Neal brand, and Shaquille is already the Big & Tall Style Ambassador for the department store retailer. While there’s nothing official yet about other brands in ABG’s portfolio umbrella, ABG chairman and CEO Jamie Salter, a firm believer in the department store business, discussed the possibility for “some of our brands that make sense for JCPenneys” during the WWD Virtual Apparel and Retail Summit last week. The department stores that are doing well are those that, like Macy’s Inc., have done a great job switching over to e-commerce, he added. That would be a greater area of focus for JCPenney “if we get involved with [the retailer],” he said.
JCPenney CEO Jill Soltau described the exit Monday as “an exciting day for our company, as we have accomplished our goal of putting JCPenney on a secure path for the future as a private company so that we can continue to serve our loyal customers.” Recognizing the company’s vendor support and employees’ hard work, Soltau added, “With this closing, our operating company has exited Chapter 11 and is continuing under new ownership and the JCPenney banner.”
The sale allows JCPenney to remain in operation and keep over 6o,000 American employed. New financing gives the retailer access to funding and the ability to pay vendors for new orders.
And while JCPenney has exited Chapter 11 ahead of the critical holiday season, it’s also starting anew at a time when the coronavirus pandemic is strengthening its grip on the American economy.
Over the weekend, California Gov. Gavin Newsom issued a new set of regional restrictions for businesses and activities designed to last for at least 21 days, impacting 11 Southern California and five San Francisco Bay Area counties. For now, retailers can remain open, but they are limited to operating at a 20 percent capacity. Other states might do the same, and there’s no guarantee that there won’t be another mandate by state and local governments to temporarily close all nonessential retail businesses if confirmed cases spike substantially in the weeks ahead.
Even without the presence of Covid-19, JCPenney would still have a tough road ahead. While the old J.C. Penney was struggling with a high debt load, it was also losing market share to digitally savvy competitors that sold merchandise appealing to younger consumers. That’s not to say there isn’t a place for the aging nameplate, but the retailer already lost much of its customer base years ago when former CEO Ron Johnson tried and failed in his ill-fated efforts give the business a younger, edgier makeover.
Many of JCPenney’s former customers have migrated elsewhere to shop, and those scars from the Ron Johnson era run deep.
Source: www.sourcingjournal.com (7 Dec 2020)
12、Francesca’s Files for Bankruptcy to Set Up a Sale
Women’s value chain Francesca’s has joined the list of retailers in bankruptcy court.
The speciality retailer filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy court protection in Delaware on Thursday. Tiger Finance LLC will provide $25 million in a debtor-in-possession financing facility. The retailer also has inked a letter of intent to sell its business to TerraMar Capital, which will be the stalking horse bidder in a bankruptcy court auction. The company has 558 boutiques in operation, though it previously said it would close 140 shops.
“The letter of intent is subject to customary closing conditions, including the execution of a definitive asset purchase agreement, and contemplates the purchase of Francesca’s as a going concern,” the retailer said.
“Implementing this process allows Francesca’s to address our lease obligations and seek a new investor that can see Francesca’s into the future. The financing provided by Tiger will enable Francesca’s to pursue a sale process that will allow us continue to focus on our omni-channel strategies, optimize our boutique fleet, broaden our customer reach with brand extensions and drive sustainable, profitable growth,” Andrew Clarke, CEO of Francesca’s, said. “We are confident that we will emerge from this process as a stronger company poised to drive growth by exploring new brand avenues, expanding our e-commerce channels, and providing our customers with the latest fashion options and treasure hunt experiences they know and love us for.”
FTI Consulting Inc. and FTI Capital Advisors have been hired as the retailer’s financial advisor and investment banker, respectively.
The retailer said it expects interested buyers to submit bids by Jan. 13, 2021, with an auction to be held no later than Jan. 15, 2021.
Source: www.sourcingjournal.com (4 Dec 2020)
13、Gap Inc. and Cone Denim Just Stepped Up Their Sustainable Cotton Cred
Gap Inc. and Cone Denim have new partnerships with the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.
Gap joined the protocol and Textile Exchange’s 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge as part of its integrated sustainability strategy and to help achieve a commitment to use only 100 percent sustainably sourced cotton by 2025.
The Trust Protocol will help Gap Inc. meet this goal by providing verified data on the sustainability practices used on U.S. cotton farms. Participating cotton growers will benefit from data-driven insights and best practices from across the industry, as well as a stronger connection to brands asking for sustainably grown cotton. The Trust Protocol opened for membership in October and provides brands and retailers with the critical assurance that the cotton in their supply chain is more responsibly grown.
“Continuous improvement is important to Gap Inc., which is why we have decided to begin sourcing more sustainable fiber through the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol,” said Alice Hartley, director of product sustainability for Gap Inc. “As part of our commitment to address climate change by aligning with the best science and industry practices, we have ambitious targets across metrics to lower carbon emissions and preserve precious natural resources like water. As an American company with purpose-led brands committed to sustainability, joining the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol makes perfect sense. With two thirds of U.S. cotton not using any irrigation at all, this allows us to further our commitment to sustainable cotton and enables us to support U.S. cotton growers.”
The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol verifies sustainability progress through sophisticated data collection and independent third-party verification. Member brands like Gap Inc. have access to aggregate year-over-year data in six areas: water use; greenhouse gas emissions; energy use; soil carbon, soil loss and land use efficiency.
“Gap Inc.’s brands are in every household, including my own, and I am personally honored it has chosen to work with us because it’s a global company that takes sustainability seriously,” Dr. Gary Adams, president of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, said. “Gap Inc. has made significant strides since setting sustainability goals, and the Trust Protocol’s farm-level data will help it in its mission to improve its impact and protect our natural resources. By signing onto the Trust Protocol, Gap Inc. will support our shared mission to educate U.S. growers around the most sustainable growing practices and support grower enrollment.”
Gap Inc. has joined the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol and Textile Exchange’s 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge.
Cone Denim also announced its membership in the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, furthering its commitment to sustainability and transparency with continued investment in a verifiable supply chain.
This follows Cone’s recently announced partnership with Oritain, whose technology uses forensic science and statistics to detect naturally occurring elements in the cotton itself to verify growth origin.
“The values and accountability of the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol align with and complement Cone Denim’s ongoing sustainability initiatives, including our pledge to the U.N.’s Sustainable Development Goals and commitment to source 80 percent verifiably sustainable cotton by 2025,” Cone Denim president Steve Maggard said. “Cone has used more than 261 million pounds of U.S. grown cotton over the last five years across our global manufacturing platform. The U.S. remains a key supply source for our cotton and the efforts and leadership of the Trust Protocol further increase the importance of cotton from this region in our journey as a responsible manufacturer and supply partner.”
As a Trust Protocol member, Cone Denim will be sourcing from participating growers and helping to drive continuous improvement among six key elements of sustainability including land use, soil carbon, water management, soil loss, greenhouse gas emissions and energy efficiency.
Mills and manufacturers who become members have access to the Trust Protocol credit system to validate consumption of cotton and associated credit.
The Trust Protocol works together with Field to Market: The Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture and Control Union Certifications North America, and is on the Textile Exchange’s list of 36 preferred fibers and materials from which more than 170 brands and retailers can select through Textile Exchange’s Material Change Index program. It is also part of Cotton 2040 and the CottonUp guide.
Gap Inc. has also accepted the Textile Exchange 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge. It is the vision of the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge that more than 50 percent of the world’s cotton is converted to more sustainable growing methods.
Brands and retailers joining the challenge and committing to source more sustainable cotton can choose from Textile Exchange’s list of recognized organic and sustainable cotton initiatives that have the ability to increase the income of smallholder farmers, eliminate highly hazardous pesticides, eliminate or reduce the amount of pesticides and synthetic fertilizer used, reduce water use and improve water quality and soil health. The U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol was recognized as one such initiative in April.
Gap noted that it began sourcing from more sustainably grown cotton programs in 2016 and within three years, 57 percent of the cotton in its products came from these sources.
Source: www.sourcingjournal.com (9 Dec 2020)
14、Fashion Touts Biden’s USTR Nominee Katherine Tai as ‘Terrific’ Pick
Industry groups praised President-elect Joe Biden’s nomination of Katherine Tai, a trade lawyer who currently serves as the chief lawyer on trade to the chairman and Democratic Members of the House Ways and Means Committee, as the next U.S. Trade Representative (USTR).
Prior to this post, Tai served in the USTR’s Office of the General Counsel, first as associate general counsel from 2007 to 2011 and then as chief counsel for China trade enforcement with responsibility for the development and litigation of U.S. disputes against China at the World Trade Organization (WTO), according to the Biden-Harris transition team.
The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) believes Tai is up to the task of taking on China and other trading partners. “As our economy recovers from Covid, it is urgent–now more than ever–that we enable smart, responsible and effective trade policies that remove barriers, advance our principles and benefit American businesses, workers, and consumers,” said AAFA president and CEO Steve Lamar.
“Katherine Tai has demonstrated experience forging trade policies that reflect input from a variety of stakeholders and is known to strike a careful balance between enforcement and facilitation,” he added. “We believe she is the right pick to hit the ground running on this critical task.”
The Biden-Harris transition team noted on its website that Tai would be the first Asian American and first woman of color to serve as USTR.
Tai, it wrote, “is a dedicated, deeply respected public servant and veteran international trade expert who has spent her career working to level the playing field for American workers and families.”
National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) president and CEO Kim Glas, also welcomed the choice Tai as the next USTR.
“This selection is welcome news to the U.S. textile industry, which has worked closely with Katherine on several critical trade issues over the years,” Glas said. “She is an exceptional candidate to serve as the next USTR, having dedicated her career to enforcing our trade laws, and, most recently, serving as a key lead negotiator in the House securing key improvements in the USMCA (United State-Mexico-Canada Agreement). She will be a powerful and thoughtful advocate on behalf of American workers and our environment. The U.S. textile industry looks forward to working with her on our top trade priorities.”
In a thought leadership article for Souring Journal, Gail W. Strickler, president of global trade for Brookfield Associates, and Rosa Whitaker, who runs Whitaker Group consultancy, wrote that Tai “has unprecedented support in the Congress” that reflects her strong leadership to bring competing interests together to tackle some of our largest trade challenges.
“Tai has an extensive background and an unblemished record of working to protect worker rights and winning cases at the WTO,” Strickler and Whitaker wrote. “She understands the potential and the limitations of the mechanisms and forums that have been a part of our trading system…Her résumé reads like the job description one would create if you were imagining the ideal candidate.”
Dr. Sheng Lu, associate professor at the University of Delaware’s Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, said Tai’s nomination “signals [that] the new Biden administration attaches great importance to the U.S.-China commercial relationship, which is at its lowest point in decades but remains so consequential to the U.S. businesses and the world.”
Biden said in a recent New York Times interview that he won’t immediately remove the tariffs on China and will instead weigh a variety of tactics when considering how best to compete with Beijing.
“I’m not going to make any immediate moves, and the same applies to the tariffs. I’m not going to prejudice my options,” Biden told columnist Thomas Friedman (no relation to this reporter) in an interview earlier this month.
“One top challenge facing the two countries is a lack of trust, and hopefully, Katherine Tai, if confirmed as USTR, will resume the high-level dialogue between the two countries, which is critical to avoid strategic miscalculation and lay the framework to solve structural issues,” Lu said. “However, do not expect the new Biden administration to be ‘soft’ on China on trade issues. On the contrary, Katherine Tai will prove herself to be a tough U.S. trade negotiator for her Chinese counterparts.”
Nicole Bivens Collinson, president of international trade and government relations at Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg, credited Tai’s “wealth of experience in international trade issues and her combined experience having worked at USTR previously and in Congress and the private sector” as forming a “solid basis for understanding the intersection of trade policy from the administrative, legislative and private sector concerns.”
Julia K. Hughes, president of the United States Fashion Industry Association, called Tai a “terrific pick for USTR,” with “some of the most important assets for the position.”
“She has experience at USTR and deep knowledge of trade policy and trade law,” Hughes noted. “She also has experience on Capitol Hill as chief trade counsel for the House Ways & Means Committee. Some of the most successful U.S. Trade Representatives have been those who combine political knowledge and relationships with in-depth trade expertise.”
She said Tai will be a “formidable negotiator with our trading partners, while also working closely with companies and domestic stakeholders.”
Matt Priest, president and CEO of the Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America, said Tai’s background “brings a deep institutional knowledge to USTR and understands the importance of the agency.”
“We look forward to working with her on the many trade issues that impact U.S. footwear companies and consumers, including the exploration of new trade agreement opportunities,” Priest said.
He wrote to Biden last month urging action on two key items for the nation’s footwear sector: removing 301 tariffs and re-entering the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP), now known as the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP).
“We need these actions because American families are already paying tens of millions [of dollars] more than they should this year as a result of antiquated trade policies,” Priest wrote.
Biden told the Times the key to dealing with China is building “leverage,” but stressed that “we don’t have it yet.” He said he wants to create that leverage against China by building a bipartisan consensus for strengthening American industry through major investments.
“I want to make sure we’re going to fight like hell by investing in America first,” Biden said. “I’m not going to enter any new trade agreement with anybody until we have made major investments here at home and in our workers.”
Source: www.sourcingjournal.com (10 Dec 2020)
15、AI Isn’t the Future for Puma and PVH
While the term conjures up images of a futuristic society run by robots, artificial intelligence, or AI, is actually a tool of the present. And for many brands, an international pandemic has only accelerated its adoption.
At the WWD Virtual Apparel and Retail Summit on Thursday, brands weighed in on the ways that data-driven technologies have become essential to their businesses.
According to Puma’s vice president of merchandising, Katie Darling, the collection of data has “been a focus for quite a while now,” especially as the athletic apparel and footwear stalwart moves more heavily into the e-commerce space. But once teams develop the capacity to collect significant data and attributes, they must ask themselves how to use the insights to “make the best decisions”—and that’s not always easy.
“That’s when these massive Excel spreadsheets and even data warehouses have to be coupled with artificial intelligence to really bring out the whole benefit,” she said. Being in the athletic gear industry, innovating and challenging the status quo are familiar impulses, she added, and it helps to be a part of a company that encourages adaptation to new tech tools across the board.
Implementing AI for in-store sales has proven especially critical in a year full of unpredictable circumstances, she said. Data helps teams to plan their assortment for each store by region, tapping historical consumer insights. But making educated buys based on what performed well last season, or even last month, doesn’t always help in a situation like the present.
“This year there were so many disrupting factors to react to,” she said. AI can help “brands that may have started with a really solid plan for each store” to “understand the trends and scenarios, and adjust on the fly.”
Rather than treat 2020 like a fluke, Darling believes that some significant retail shifts could emerge from the crisis. Loungewear could become even more important. Back to school could ship later. Holiday could ship earlier. “These changes might actually become trends that come out of Covid,” she said, and Puma’s planning teams won’t simply “wipe this year away” once it comes to its long-awaited close. “We’ll actually utilize what we’re seeing to impact the future, because some of those trends might be here to stay.”
AI has allowed the brand to spot those nuanced developments early, she said, while it might take human eyes “months to capitalize on, or to understand, that this trend is happening and it’s not going away.”
Kate Nadolny, senior vice president of business strategy and innovation for PVH Corp., which owns brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, said that the company’s strategy for using data and AI at the store level has been steadily evolving.
“We’ve really been focused on utilizing AI for what we think is the here and now, the lowest hanging fruit,” she said, “which is reacting real-time to making pricing decisions on the floor within our retail stores.”
There are extensive learnings to be gleaned from watching trends unfold across multiple stores in different regions, and even across brands, she said. It’s important to understand, “on a more granular basis,” what shopper behavior looks like at each store, along with “what the different levers are, and how we can potentially pull them” to implement effective promotion strategies, she said.
“Previously, just because of the sheer volume of SKUs and stores and product across our brands, we were really focused at a relatively high level,” she said. “It’s hard to execute at the store level, and at the item level, when you’re working on Excel,” she added. “We’re able to now make decisions that are a little bit more real-time, and a little bit closer to some of the detail.”
The company is now starting to think beyond pricing and look at inventory planning as well. Naldony said that PVH Corp. is now starting to “engage a little bit more deeply into assorting” using historical data and third-party analytics.
AI tools also give the company’s brands an enhanced understanding of what the consumer is going to be looking for earlier on in the product development cycle, she said. Those insights can be used to make decisions on product lines, “and really build the box that our merchants and designers can play in to make the right decisions” she added. “Now, it really is more about understanding how to take those data points and turn them into action.”
Source: www.sourcingjournal.com (9 Dec 2020)