2021年7月30日
行業報導 - 2021年7月30日
1、英國示警:緬甸兩周內或半數人口染疫
英國向聯合國安理會發出警告，指緬甸5400萬人口中，在未來兩周內可能有一半將感染新冠病毒。
英國因應緬甸疫情「危急」而召開這次會議，據英方說法，自當地軍人於2月奪權控制緬甸後，疫情「迅速惡化」。
英國駐聯合國大使吳百納(Barbara Woodward)在安理會的非正式討論中表示，軍人奪權後令當地的醫療系統瀕臨崩潰，醫護人員被襲擊及被拘捕。
英國敦促安理會應確保緬甸境內遵守第2565號決議。這項決議要求衝突區停火，好讓新冠疫苗能安全配送。吳百納指，安理會應考慮如何執行決議。
聯合國估計，目前緬甸醫護設施只有四成仍能運作，而很多醫生及醫護人員自軍人奪權以來加入不合作運動，成為軍方的攻擊目標。
緬甸國營媒體本周曾報道稱，軍政府當局正尋求「友好國家」協助對抗疫情。
緬甸昨天通報新增約5000宗感染病例，遠較5月初的單日約50宗為高，但有分析家指，真實數據可能不只如此。
資料來源：信報財經 (2021年7月30日)
2、美國時裝企業原材料採購將趨向多元化
2021年7月，美國時尚產業協會發佈了《USFIA時尚產業基準研究報告》(2021 Fashion Industry Benchmarking Study)，報告通過對美國時裝企業的採訪，對美採購商的採購意向進行調查和研究。
美國時裝公司通常從多個國家採購，來平衡採購成本、上市速度、可靠性、靈活性和合規風險。今年，根據研究受訪者公司的採購多元化戰略和採購組合發現顯著和持續的變化：
首先，由於美國時裝公司在疫情期間優先加強了與主要供應商的關係，所以受訪者表示，整體的採購地多元化程度與前幾年相比較低。目前只有36.7%的受訪者從10個以上不同的國家或地區採購，低於2020年的42.1%、2019年的57.1%和2018年的60.7%。整合採購地在大公司中更為普遍(擁有1,000名以上員工的大公司)：2020年只有53%的受訪者從超過10個不同國家或地區採購，2019年為62%，2017年為81%。
與結果一致的是，美國30家最大的服裝公司中有近一半表示，2020-2021與疫情前的2017-2019年相比，它們減少了採購來源地或減少了合作的供應商。
其次，較大的美國時裝公司與較小的公司相比，一般採用更加多元化的採購來源地。2021年，擁有1,000多名員工的受訪企業通常從至少六個不同的國家或地區採購。相比之下，員工人數少於1,000人的企業通常從1-2個或者3-5個不同國家或地區採購。
第三，“中國+越南+其他”仍然是受訪者中最受歡迎的採購模式。
具體來說：
● 目前中國和越南合計佔據美國時裝公司總採購價值或採購量的20-40%，低於過去幾年的40-60%。值得注意的是，約36.7%的受訪者表示，2021年從中國和越南採購了40%以上的服裝產品，2020年約47.6%，2019年為62.9%。這一結果表明，儘管總體而言採購地集中，但美國時尚公司正在將採購從“中國+越南”向多元化發展，以避免“所有雞蛋放在一個籃子裡”，降低採購風險。
● 另一個普遍趨勢是，美國時裝公司把產品採購重心從中國轉向越南。2021年有36.7%的受訪者表示如此，高於2020年的29%和2019年的25%。但是規模較小的公司(員工人數少於1,000人)仍然更多地依賴從中國採購。由於規模較小的公司更多將中國視為“一站式”採購基地，鑒於可用的替代方案有限且需要各種額外資源，在疫情期間從中國轉向其他國家多元化採購對他們來說更具挑戰性。
● 除了中國和越南，美國時裝公司還從其他幾個國家採購。
亞洲是美國時裝公司主要的紡織品中間品採購地。所有受訪者都表示他們的進口服裝含有亞洲製造的紡織原料。美國時裝公司也從美國(27%)和歐洲(13%)採購紡織品，但比率要低得多。此外，超過一半的受訪者表示，他們從美國-墨西哥-加拿大貿易協定(USMCA)和多明尼加共和國-中美洲自由貿易協定(CAFTA-DR)的成員國進口的服裝，使用亞洲製造的紡織品中間品，而不是美國製造。
在國家層面，中國是使用率最高的紡織品供應商，沒有競爭對手。大約93%的受訪者表示，他們從中國採購紡織中間品，遠高於韓國、臺灣和日本(合計53%)以及亞洲其他地區(73%)的總和。官方貿易統計資料還顯示，近年來，中國作為重要服裝出口國，尤其是亞洲的紡織品供應國，扮演著更重要的角色。隨著如區域全面經濟夥伴關係協定(RCEP)等一些新的大型貿易協定在今年或明年生效，這個以亞洲為基礎的區域供應鏈將會進一步加強。
儘管如此，“中國加上至少1-2個額外的亞洲國家”是美國時裝公司中最受歡迎的紡織原材料採購方式。大約80%的受訪者採用這種模式，而從中國採購所有產品的企業比例不到6%。
總體而言，與服裝製造不同，製造紡織品需要更多的技術和資本積累，使得美國時裝公司的選擇要少得多。從中國和亞洲的紡織品原材料採購的多元化轉移也將比服裝採購更具挑戰性，速度也慢得多。
資料來源：紡織網 (2021年7月22日)
3、歐盟「環保關稅」 中印抱團反對
在對抗全球氣候變化的問題上，歐盟最近動真章，經濟學家以經濟誘因推動產能綠化的碳排放稅倡議，化為歐盟的「碳邊境調整機制」（Carbon Border Adjustment Mechanism，簡稱CBAM）。歐盟動起來，觸動中國及印度等發展中國家神經。
中國生態環境部發言人劉友賓在周一的例行記者會上，嚴辭批評CBAM本質上是一種單邊措施，無原則地把氣候問題擴大到貿易領域，違反世貿規則，嚴重損害國際社會互信和經濟增長前景。
全球發行量最大的英文報章《印度時報》日前就發炮，形容CBAM是可怕的主意（terrible idea），恐變成貿易保護主義，並重挫發展中國家，不能以關稅強行推動這種改變。
印度並再次提起在減排問題上，已發展地區及發展中地區長期以來的分歧：富國過去的經濟發展，皆由化石燃料推動，應對溫室氣體排放負起歷史責任，以經濟援助幫助發展中國家向低排放轉型，並提供技術轉移，而非單方面強推環保標準。
多個發展中國家群起反抗，反映各國都意識到CBAM執行下去帶來的嚴重後果。歐盟設下CBAM原意是推動環保，向碳排放高的貨品徵稅，避免地球步向滅亡。
可是環保有成本，要投放資本開支，受嚴厲環保政策限制的歐洲企業，面對發展中國家競爭便處於劣勢，CBAM強行抹平這種競爭差異，同時引導其他國家在碳排放稅上跟隨歐盟。
環保當然沒錯，全球政府都在大力推動環保，特朗普（Donald Trump）2017年退出《巴黎協定》便惹來千夫所指，但不可否認，各國在綠化步伐上差異極大，一眾發展中國家仍十分依賴化石燃料發電，碳排放居高不下。
按期刊《Frontiers》有報告指，全球167個城市中，溫室氣體排放量過半來自約25個大城市，而中國城市則佔其中23個；2019年光是中印兩國，就佔全球排放量的33.6%，故任何全球性的減排機制，難免令中印緊張。
尤其中國是世界工廠，疫情之下中國出口不跌反升，聯合國數據指，中國的全球出口佔比，達到15%，遠高於排第二的美國（僅8.1%，第三的德國則為7.8%）。
當然，目前國際社會對CBAM仍有保留，反對者不乏盟友，國際貨幣基金組織（IMF）、世貿統統不支持，碳排放量僅次於中國的美國則未明確表態。
主理氣候變化問題的美國氣候特使克里（John Kerry）在意大利出席二十國集團（G20）峰會時，說得相當含糊，指總統拜登（Joe Biden）要責令他全面審視CBAM，可能會，也可能不會支持。
拜登一向重視ESG（環境、社會、企業管治），這對發展中國家來說是很大危機，在國際標準的制定上，歐盟向來有相當大的話語權，獲歐盟通過、認可的標準，其他經濟體或國家往往會跟隨。
一旦美國也跟隨，兩大主要市場行動一致，每噸50歐元的碳價下，倚重煤電的發展中國家能否趕得及轉型？
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2021年7月29日)
4、國貿局：印度延長實施紡織品「出口退稅計畫(RoSCTL)」3年
印度內閣頃決定延長現行紡織品「出口退稅計畫(Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies, RoSCTL) 」3年至2024年3月31日止。RoSCTL計畫係於2019年3月7日首次公布實施，提供成衣(Apparel)及家用紡織品(Made ups，如毛巾、窗簾、地毯、枕頭、床單等) 出口退稅，針對無法適用商品服務稅(GST)退稅之產品給予中央最高6.05%及州8.2%之出口退稅。
依據統計資料顯示，2020年印度針織成衣(Knitted Apparel)、平織成衣(Woven Apparel)及家用紡織品出口總值為170億美元，與越南及孟加拉等出口金額302億美元及369億美元，顯示印度紡織競爭力仍不足。印度商工部表示，該計畫延長將有助於提升印度紡織品出口競爭力並創造就業，且該計畫與「出口商品稅捐減免計畫(RoDTEP)」涵蓋產品別不同。根據RoSCTL計畫，出口商產品出口後將取得退稅額度憑證(Duty Credit Scrip)，未來可用於支付進口機械設備或原料之基本關稅。
印度紡織部表示，RoSCTL計畫實施1年適逢疫情嚴峻，為提供出口商穩定的政策環境，該計畫有必要延長實施。印度出口組織協會(FIEO)會長暨成衣出口推廣委員會(AEPC)主席A Sakthivel表示，印度紡織業從業人口達4,500萬，2020-21年度成衣出口值為122.8億美元，較2019-20年度(155億美元)衰退20.8%，透過該計畫延長實施將可重振出口商信心，使未來3年印度紡織品出口金額達1千億美元。
資料來源：www.moneydj.com (2021年7月29日)
5、服裝標籤製造商SML擬最快明年來港上市 集資逾15億元
時裝、零售商的服裝標籤製造商SML計劃來港上市。據彭博報道指，公司計劃集資2億美元（約15.6億港元），並最快於明年上市，去年曾報道指，SML計劃最多集資5億美元。
報道續指，公司目前與上市顧問就上市計劃磋商，該上市計劃吸引Affintiy Equity Partners及FountainVest Partners等的私募基金。
SML是一家全球業務及品牌設計解決方案供應商，其業務遍及30多個國家。公司於1985年由孫少文創立。
資料來源：香港經濟日報 (2021年7月28日)
6、進博會倒數100日 50多國參與國家展
【明報專訊】第四屆中國國際進口博覽會開幕昨倒計時100日，中國國際進口博覽局副局長孫成海稱，進博會企業展招展已完成預期目標。目前，簽約展覽面積已達到36萬平方米預期目標，工作重心已轉向組展招商。孫成海介紹，本屆進博會簽約參展的世界500強和行業龍頭企業數量超過上屆，回頭率超過80%，同時有30多家為首次參展，不少在行業細分領域佔據領先地位的企業也將亮相。國家展是進博會的重要部分，本屆進博會將首次採用虛擬現實（VR）、3D建模等技術，為參展國搭建標準的數碼展廳。目前已有50多個國家確認參加國家展。
資料來源：明報 (2021年7月27日)
7、Chinese manufacturers forced to halt production in Vietnam as coronavirus surge grows
● Chinese manufacturers in southern Vietnam are suffering amid lockdowns and business closures, and they are not confident restrictions will be relaxed soon
● A growing number of Chinese manufacturers have moved to Vietnam since the start of the trade war to evade tariffs and take advantage of cheaper labour
Chinese manufacturers in Vietnam are struggling amid the country’s worst coronavirus outbreak so far, with one business in the hard-hit south “losing tens of thousands of US dollars” a day.
Fuelled by the fast-spreading Delta variant, cases have surged in the Southeast Asian nation in recent months, hitting another record high of 6,194 new infections on Thursday.
Authorities in Ho Chi Minh City, the country’s financial and economic hub, and neighbouring industrial provinces like Dong Nai and Binh Duong have closed non-essential businesses, restricted gatherings and imposed strict social distancing measures.
Xu Chuanlu, the owner of Dinh Thinh Plastic in Ho Chi Minh City, said his factory had been closed for the past 12 days and it had come at a huge expense.
“We are expected to resume production in two days, but I am not optimistic, there are still thousands of new cases every day, maybe our production will be suspended for another two weeks, who knows?” the Chinese businessman said.
Vietnam had successfully contained the virus until about three months ago, when new outbreaks returned to ravage southern provinces. As of Thursday, the country had recorded a total of 72,242 domestically transmitted Covid-19 cases, including 70,672 since late April, according to the health ministry.
Xu, who has been spray painting for big shoe brands for about 20 years in Vietnam, said production had only been halted once before, during the 2014 anti-China protests.
“All workers have been released to go home, only me and a few Chinese colleagues are staying in the facility and we don’t go out. We are losing tens of thousands of US dollars every day,” said Xu.
“There is no way for us to deliver orders on schedule now.”
More than 1,000 workers are employed at the factory, all of whom have to be paid fixed salaries, despite the shut down in production. Xu added there were no government subsidies for his company.
A growing number of Chinese manufacturers have moved to Vietnam since the start of the US-China trade war in search of tariff-free access for their exports to the United States.
Even before the trade war, Chinese companies – especially those in the textile and garment industry – had begun relocating to Vietnam due to its relatively stable government and inexpensive pool of labour.
Last week, authorities closed several factories in Ho Chi Minh City’s Saigon Hi-tech Park, including the Samsung Electronics CE Complex, after more than 750 coronavirus cases were found at a factory there.
Factories in Vietnam – including ASRock, Ching Feng Home Fashions, and Pouchen – suppliers for Netflix, Ikea and Nike, have joined a list of companies forced to halt production, too.
Under lockdown measures set to run until August 1, residents in Ho Chi Minh City have been asked to stay at home except to receive medical care, buy essential goods or work for essential businesses.
Business in Hai Phong, a port city in northeastern Vietnam, is running close to normal, according to Chinese businessman Gan Likai, who manages Wei Lin Import and Export Trading.
“Our losses are not as serious as those in the south because the pandemic control in Hai Phong is by far the best across Vietnam,” he said.
His factory operation, which employs about 1,000 workers, has not been affected by the current outbreak, but operating costs have increased by 20 to 30 per cent per month due to pandemic control measures, he said.
“Overall, the epidemic has brought some incalculable losses to Chinese companies here,” Gan said.
Vietnam aims to inoculate at least 70 per cent of its 96 million citizens by the end of the year, but only 4.6 per cent have had a single dose so far, according to official government data.
Source: www.scmp.com (23 Jul 2021)
8、Bangladesh eyes investing in synthetic fibre as global demand rises
Apparel exporters say synthetic fibre is the future of the export-oriented garment sector
As the demand for synthetic fibre keeps growing in the international market, Bangladesh is also eyeing more investments in the material to boost garment exports.
Apparel exporters say synthetic fibre is the future of the export-oriented garment sector as most reputed brands and consumers are leaning towards man-made and recycled fibre to achieve sustainability.
Over the next few years, many well-known brands may even stop buying apparels produced from non-recyclable material, they added.
And the gradual rise in import of synthetic fibre over the last few years indicates that Bangladeshi apparel manufacturers are responding to the global demand.
According to the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), local spinners imported 99,345 tonnes of polyester staple fibre (PSF) in 2020 even amid the pandemic, up 3.4% from 96,077 tonnes the previous year.
Currently, 40 spinning mills import PSF fibre to make yarns for producing high-end garments such as sportswear.
The import of viscose staple fibre (VSF) also soared last year as spinners imported 72,504 tonnes of VSF — a 36% year-on-year increase — according to the BTMA.
Moreover, entrepreneurs of the country's textile sector are also investing in the production of synthetic fibre and clothes.
According to the BTMA, about 80 textile mills are currently producing various types of synthetic yarns and fabrics including polyester, VSF, tensile, and modal.
“The number was below 50 in 2016 and several new textile mills will go into production of synthetic fibre within two or three years,” said Fazlul Hoque, vice president of the BTMA.
Bangladesh has the potential to pivot to the production of synthetic fibre-based textile and apparel to realize greater per unit values, he added.
“The investment in the synthetic fibre sector of our country is growing as buyers are choosing the fabric as a substitute to cotton fibre for sustainability and environmental issues,” said Md Khorshed Alam, chairman of Little Star Spinning Limited.
The use of man-made fibre has increased because of higher production of value-added garment items, he further said.
Faruque Hassan, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), recently wrote in an opinion piece for Dhaka Tribune: “To ensure sustained growth, diversification is key. There is a need to create an enabling environment and incentivize investors to encourage investment in non-cotton garment and textile productions.”
The usage of man-made fibre in end-use categories like sportswear, leisurewear, women’s dresses, home textile, automotive, carpets and other industrial sectors also make it an ideal “fibre of the future,” say industry insiders.
But the response to adopting synthetic fibre-based apparel production has been slow so far.
Though Bangladesh has emerged as one of the leading apparel suppliers in the last few decades, its man-made apparel exports are much lower than competing countries.
According to the International Textile Manufacturer Federation (ITMF), synthetic fibre makes up 78% of the world's clothing where the remaining 22% is made of cotton fibre.
However, garment exports from Bangladesh constitute 70% of natural cotton apparels, with only 30% made of synthetic fibre, according to ITMF data.
Furthermore, the global man-made apparel trade stood at around $179 billion in 2019 where Bangladesh held only 5% market share.
For context, competing Vietnam held 10% of the man-made apparel trade.
BTMA Vice President Fazlul Hoque said Bangladesh is lagging behind in the sector mainly due to the lack of technology.
The textile manufacturers’ association also said that they need to strengthen the connectivity for synthetic fibre and need policy support.
Earlier, BTMA President Mohammad Ali Khokon had said the import of man-made fibre needs to be duty-free like cotton as the demand for yarn is increasing.
The imposition of 5% VAT on the sales of yarn is discouraging for the sector, he added.
In response to the growing global demand, the BGMEA had also demanded a 10% cash incentive for man-made fibre-based products in the current fiscal year.
Their expectation was that with the help of the existing factories, they would be able to export an additional $2 billion worth of garments.
However, that demand also ultimately went unaddressed.
Source: www.dhakatribune.com (25 Jul 2021)